Submarine Motor controller.
The motor controller is constructed using the Atmel AT90S1200 series micro controller. Great General purpose chip, just perfect for this job.
The pump circuitry I would need in my Submarine would have the following functionality:
I already build a motor controller that used the H-bridge construction, but I thought it was big considered to the amount of AMPs it could drive, so I made a smaller/cheaper design that uses a relay.
I have heard many different stories about relay motor controllers, and some of them are not great. But I thought I would give it a try.
Most of the time you are running forwards, so naturally the relay would have to be turned on when using the reverse.
The software in the chip makes sure that the relay is only switched when no current is going through the relay, so sparks and worn relays should be minimized.
In a H-bridge it is requires a minimum to have 4 FETs to operate a motor in both directions. to increase its power, it would be needed to add 4 FETs more, and so on until sufficient power can be drawn. In the Relay design, you would just need to add a single FET to increase power capability drastically.
The internal resistance from the motor to the supply will always be equal to 2*Ron (if using 4 FETs) of the FETs in a H-Bridge. but by using relay design it would always be 1 x Ron (using 1 FET - depending on the number of fets, since they are placed in parallel).
There are no protection against very fast switching from Full forward to full reverse and the other way. this is to give the person in control of the sub a fast reaction time, and full control of the situation. If the sub is storming towards another boat or a rock, a full back would be required NOW, and not when the motor has settled and cooled down.
Because of this its possible to destroy the relay and the motor, but this would be done by continuously and quickly moving the stick from full back to full forward for a longer period of time, and the motor would also be close to the melting point. But if you are bored and are only trying to destroy the thing, then just use a hammer, its much quicker. (This is not a situation you would ever find yourself in using a SUB...)
The Controller is also fitted with LEDs to be able to diagnose any faults to the system, while its still mounted in the WTC.
On this page there are provided HEX code to program the chip to function like the above, and a schematic diagram has been provided also for download.
The reason why the PCB has not been published is that if this type of device is going to be made for a submarine, it would most likely be customized to fit the exact purpose. The PCB I made is still a beta version, and I have already
found enhancements to the PCB, so there are no need to publish a beta. (maybe when I make a better version). It will naturally be published if requested.
Email me at - kimfmx@gmail.com
Fuse and lock bits are not set in the code, but should be:
Email me at - kimfmx@gmail.com
