Harley flathead/WLC/45 Bobber project

From FmxWiki
(Difference between revisions)
Jump to: navigation, search
(Fixing it up from the old look to how i want it..)
(Fixing it up from the old look to how i want it..)
 
(30 intermediate revisions not shown)
Line 6: Line 6:
== Fixing it up from the old look to how i want it..==
== Fixing it up from the old look to how i want it..==
-
[[File:Before.jpg‎|center|400px|How it looked to start with..]]
+
[[File:DSC_3310small.jpg‎|center|]]
== Wheels, Fenders and seat ==
== Wheels, Fenders and seat ==
Line 24: Line 24:
[[File:IMG 7911s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7911s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7912s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7912s.JPG|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMG 7924s.JPG|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMG 7925s.JPG|100px]]
Replacing the switch on the dash with a small switch box on the battery case. The surface facing forward on the battery case, i have welded on two bolts, so i can mount the small switch case. that way you lighting on the left side, and Ignition on the left side. The hole in the dash i want to place a Amp meter, on bikes with ignition that depends on the battery, its not onle important to know if the generator is making current, but its important to know that its actually making enough to charge the battery. that you can not see from the dash "GEN" indicator..
Replacing the switch on the dash with a small switch box on the battery case. The surface facing forward on the battery case, i have welded on two bolts, so i can mount the small switch case. that way you lighting on the left side, and Ignition on the left side. The hole in the dash i want to place a Amp meter, on bikes with ignition that depends on the battery, its not onle important to know if the generator is making current, but its important to know that its actually making enough to charge the battery. that you can not see from the dash "GEN" indicator..
Line 35: Line 37:
== Twist grip mod, to eliminate handlebar swithes ==
== Twist grip mod, to eliminate handlebar swithes ==
 +
The twist grip internals alu part were made by my friend Tony Schalburg on CNC.
 +
[[File:IMG 7899s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7899s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7900s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7900s.JPG|100px]]
Line 50: Line 54:
== Fitting Dodge 1920 Headlamp ==
== Fitting Dodge 1920 Headlamp ==
 +
Found a front headlamp from a Dodge car from 1920 (can be seen here: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/1920_Dodge_Brothers_touring_car.JPG), and the look was perfect, and i love the size, and the hight over the front wheel...
 +
 +
If you happend to find the same headlamp, and wonder how it is taken apart (no, there are absolutely no screws anywhere - The you need to hold the glas rim, push in, while turning counter clockwise, and it will all fall apart.)
 +
 +
To make the headlamp usable, you need to find a donor headlamp that has a socket you want to use. I used a Lucas 700 reflector, and cut out the bulb socket with a dremel - These are easy to find cheap at auto jumbles, as these tend to rust.. but as you dont need the rusty part, its all good. .
 +
 +
Cut out the Lucas socket:
 +
 +
[[File:IMG 7919s.JPG|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMG 7920s.JPG|100px]]
 +
 +
The cut-out of the Dodge socket:
 +
 +
[[File:IMG 7917s.JPG|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMG 7918s.JPG|100px]]
 +
 +
Make room for the new socket and solder it in. Carefull not to use too much heat, as these old headlamps, the reflector is actually made from tin, so you can end up getting flowing tin on the reflector side, which will distort the beam.
 +
 +
The Lucas socket soldered in the Dodge reflector:
 +
[[File:IMG 7913s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7913s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7914s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7914s.JPG|100px]]
Line 55: Line 79:
[[File:IMG 7916s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:IMG 7916s.JPG|100px]]
-
Found a front headlamp from a Dodge car from 1920 (can be seen here: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/1920_Dodge_Brothers_touring_car.JPG), and the look was perfect, and i love the size, and the hight over the front wheel...
+
Im missing the pilot bulp, which will be fitted the exact same way.
-
To make the headlamp usable, you need to find a donor headlamp that has a socket you want to use. I used a Lucas 700 HEadlamp, and cut out the bulb socket with a dremel. Cut out the original socket, and mase room for the new socket and welded it in. Carefull not to use too much heat, as on these old headlamps, the reflector is actually made from tin, so you can end up getting flowing tin on the reflector side.
+
To fit the headlamp on the bike, cut off the lamps long fixture, so its as short as you want it. take a 1/2" tap and run up the stem on the springer fork from below, and you make a brackt to connecto those two, and you are good to go. Simple and very tough.
-
Im missing the pilot bulp, which will be fitted the exact same way.
+
[[File:IMG 7921s.JPG|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMG 7922s.JPG|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMG 7923s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:DSC 3651s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:DSC 3651s.JPG|100px]]
Line 65: Line 91:
[[File:DSC 3653s.JPG|100px]]
[[File:DSC 3653s.JPG|100px]]
-
To fit the headlamp on the bike, cut off the lamps long fixture, so its as short as you want it. take a 1/2" tap and run up the stem on the springer fork from below, and you make a brackt to connecto those two, and you are good to go. Simple and very tough.
+
== Brass Speedometer and tank cover plate ==
 +
So its time to do some customisation.. The Speedometer is dismantled, and carefull measures are taken to be able to replicate the faceplate. a program is written in G-code, to make a new faceplate. It is deliberate that i have removed the trip counters, as those are irelevant to me..
 +
 
 +
As i have moved the tanks further apart to accomodate for the improved wireing harness, i have also designed a cover plate that goes between the tank halves.. No pinstriping digitally is NOT easy...
 +
 
-
== Leaf spring seat fixture ==
+
[[File:IMAG0155.jpg|100px]]
-
TBD
+
[[File:IMAG0157.jpg|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMAG0156.jpg|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMAG0163.jpg|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMAG0162.jpg|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMAG0166.jpg|100px]]
 +
[[File:IMAG0167.jpg|100px]]

Latest revision as of 19:11, 11 June 2012

Harley Davidson WLC Flathead 750, 45" Bobber, modification.


Email me

Contents

Fixing it up from the old look to how i want it..

DSC 3310small.jpg

Wheels, Fenders and seat

The rear wheel were some of a oddball, it turned out to be a Fulda 15" car tire, and worse yet, it turned out that the bearing in the star-hub had been attempted a repair, where they used very fine roller bearings, which had been moving in wrong places, resulting in the wheel beeing able to move in axial, and 90 Degrees on axial, which could be felt when driving... the Drive was needless to say quite live.. so....Now 16" rims and Firestone tires..

DSC 3310small.jpg DSC 3400small.jpg DSC 3401small.jpg IMAG0073small.jpg DSC 3610small.jpg IMAG0044s.jpg IMAG0070small.jpg IMAG0074small.jpg IMAG0071small.jpg

TBD Ignition convertion to solid state

IMAG0080small.jpg

Reverting old style black foot levers

IMAG0081small.jpgIMAG0082small.jpg

Rewireing

IMG 7910s.JPG IMG 7911s.JPG IMG 7912s.JPG IMG 7924s.JPG IMG 7925s.JPG

Replacing the switch on the dash with a small switch box on the battery case. The surface facing forward on the battery case, i have welded on two bolts, so i can mount the small switch case. that way you lighting on the left side, and Ignition on the left side. The hole in the dash i want to place a Amp meter, on bikes with ignition that depends on the battery, its not onle important to know if the generator is making current, but its important to know that its actually making enough to charge the battery. that you can not see from the dash "GEN" indicator..

When making your own wireing, its a good idea to find a picture of the frame, and plan your wireing from there... another approach is to just pull some wires, but that can cause alot of waste wires cuts..

DSC 3654s.JPG DSC 3655s.JPG DSC 3656s.JPG DSC 3657s.JPG

Twist grip mod, to eliminate handlebar swithes

The twist grip internals alu part were made by my friend Tony Schalburg on CNC.

IMG 7899s.JPG IMG 7900s.JPG IMG 7901s.JPG IMG 7902s.JPG IMG 7903s.JPG IMG 7904s.JPG IMG 7905s.JPG IMG 7906s.JPG IMG 7907s.JPG IMG 7908s.JPG IMG 7909s.JPG

The last picture shows the insert that goes into the handlebar. When the grip is mounted, you twist it upwards to switche between high and low beam. When you twist it down you activate the horn. That way you dont need the ugly crome switches on the handlebars.

Fitting Dodge 1920 Headlamp

Found a front headlamp from a Dodge car from 1920 (can be seen here: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/1920_Dodge_Brothers_touring_car.JPG), and the look was perfect, and i love the size, and the hight over the front wheel...

If you happend to find the same headlamp, and wonder how it is taken apart (no, there are absolutely no screws anywhere - The you need to hold the glas rim, push in, while turning counter clockwise, and it will all fall apart.)

To make the headlamp usable, you need to find a donor headlamp that has a socket you want to use. I used a Lucas 700 reflector, and cut out the bulb socket with a dremel - These are easy to find cheap at auto jumbles, as these tend to rust.. but as you dont need the rusty part, its all good. .

Cut out the Lucas socket:

IMG 7919s.JPG IMG 7920s.JPG

The cut-out of the Dodge socket:

IMG 7917s.JPG IMG 7918s.JPG

Make room for the new socket and solder it in. Carefull not to use too much heat, as these old headlamps, the reflector is actually made from tin, so you can end up getting flowing tin on the reflector side, which will distort the beam.

The Lucas socket soldered in the Dodge reflector:

IMG 7913s.JPG IMG 7914s.JPG IMG 7915s.JPG IMG 7916s.JPG

Im missing the pilot bulp, which will be fitted the exact same way.

To fit the headlamp on the bike, cut off the lamps long fixture, so its as short as you want it. take a 1/2" tap and run up the stem on the springer fork from below, and you make a brackt to connecto those two, and you are good to go. Simple and very tough.

IMG 7921s.JPG IMG 7922s.JPG IMG 7923s.JPG

DSC 3651s.JPG DSC 3652s.JPG DSC 3653s.JPG

Brass Speedometer and tank cover plate

So its time to do some customisation.. The Speedometer is dismantled, and carefull measures are taken to be able to replicate the faceplate. a program is written in G-code, to make a new faceplate. It is deliberate that i have removed the trip counters, as those are irelevant to me..

As i have moved the tanks further apart to accomodate for the improved wireing harness, i have also designed a cover plate that goes between the tank halves.. No pinstriping digitally is NOT easy...


IMAG0155.jpg IMAG0157.jpg IMAG0156.jpg IMAG0163.jpg IMAG0162.jpg IMAG0166.jpg IMAG0167.jpg

Personal tools