1953 Ariel VB 600
This is the first bike I own that has a Speedo
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Removing the timing cover.
127-2759 IMG.JPG (36946 bytes)
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127-2760 IMG.JPG (47926 bytes)
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127-2771 IMG.JPG (62758 bytes)
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Lots of buildup of excess fluid gasket - I wonder how the sludge trap looks.
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Is it normal to have them to much off center?
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Its going to be a real hassle to get this pinion off, It has bee grinding the crancase!!
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Removing the Drive side cover.
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Engine removed and inspected
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Cylinder + piston + Head looks fine
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My temporary workshop (in 5 degrees freeeeeezing).
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Transport to better locations
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Now I need to dismantle some of the last bits, and then its all going to be properly cleaned, for final inspection.
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This shock absorber arrangement is ok, even though they dont seem to look right.
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The Assembly:
The parts are now properly cleaned and ready for inspection and assembly:
It was quickly obvious that a new cam bus was needed, so the old one was removed.
Placing the Cam bush with a screw and center spacers to assure a straight pull, and it does not jam on the way.
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Reaming the Cam Bush - Please note the bush spacer that keeps the reamer in line, and does a perfect job. - The Reamer Was borrowed from Henrik Larsen from the Danish Ariel Klub
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Now I have to shim the crankshaft with the crankcase.
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Just a moment-photo of my tool shed - its pure pleasure to do Ariel there - When its warm (-:
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The two cams, The old one have to be redone somehow - The new one was purchased from Jørgen Andersen.
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The halfs have been prepared and the shimming is finished, so the halved can be put together for good.
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The halves are carefully cleaned with alcohol, and the sealing compound is put on both halves.
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The halves are put together, and the end clearance is checked once again.
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Now its time to fit the CAM and the cam followers. Please make sure the lube before fitting, as the first starting of the engine will be without that much lube, until the oil is circulating properly.
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I made some slight modifications to the gasket, to make it fit the timing side - Otherwise it would not be a perfect fit. I took off aboit 1-2 mm at the side.
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Make sure to place the extra gasket at the oil return suction joint. (Use very little fluid gasket on each side to be sure)
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Putting slight amount of fluid gasket on the timing box.
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When the timing halve has been fitted you should make a test to check weather the return suction joint are air tight - I took a rubber hose and placed on the suction tube (near the sump plate) and placed my finger on the hole where the oil pump is fitted, and started to suck. This should be completely air tight.
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Next was the cylinder barrel and head.
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If the timing chain are the endless one, it has to be fitted with the sprocket, other wise its not possible to get it on.
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The ignition and dynamo is inspected - I checked that it was functioning bu getting a electric jilt when turning it by hand. (It can have other faults, even though this is possible)
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the engine is ready, now I just want to make the bike roadworthy - I found that the rear wheel bearing was badly worn, so it had to be changed. (Don't worry, it will also have to be painted at some point in time)
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Make your own Front fork dismantle tool.
I have received a question on how the tool for dismantling the front for looks like. The tool shown in the pictures are made myself, and works quite well. forktool.jpg (11205 bytes) Crude measurement picture of the fork tool.
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This is the first bike I own that has a Speedo.
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Removing the timing cover.
|
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|
Lots of buildup of excess fluid gasket - I wonder how the sludge trap looks.
|
Is it normal to have them to much off center?
|
|
|
Its going to be a real hassle to get this pinion off, It has bee grinding the crancase!!
|
|
Removing the Drive side cover.
|
|
Engine removed and inspected
|
|
|
|
Cylinder + piston + Head looks fine
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
My temporary workshop (in 5 degrees freeeeeezing).
|
Transport to better locations
|
|
Now I need to dismantle some of the last bits, and then its all going to be properly cleaned, for final inspection.
|
|
|
|
|
This shock absorber arrangement is ok, even though they dont seem to look right.
|
|
|
|
|
The Assembly:
The parts are now properly cleaned and ready for inspection and assembly:
It was quickly obvious that a new cam bus was needed, so the old one was removed.
Placing the Cam bush with a screw and center spacers to assure a straight pull, and it does not jam on the way.
|
Reaming the Cam Bush - Please note the bush spacer that keeps the reamer in line, and does a perfect job. - The Reamer Was borrowed from Henrik Larsen from the Danish Ariel Klub
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|
Now I have to shim the crankshaft with the crankcase.
|
|
|
|
|
Just a moment-photo of my tool shed - its pure pleasure to do Ariel there - When its warm (-:
|
The two cams, The old one have to be redone somehow - The new one was purchased from Jørgen Andersen.
|
The halfs have been prepared and the shimming is finished, so the halved can be put together for good.
|
|
|
|
The halves are carefully cleaned with alcohol, and the sealing compound is put on both halves.
|
|
|
|
|
The halves are put together, and the end clearance is checked once again.
|
|
|
|
Now its time to fit the CAM and the cam followers. Please make sure the lube before fitting, as the first starting of the engine will be without that much lube, until the oil is circulating properly.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I made some slight modifications to the gasket, to make it fit the timing side - Otherwise it would not be a perfect fit. I took off aboit 1-2 mm at the side.
|
Make sure to place the extra gasket at the oil return suction joint. (Use very little fluid gasket on each side to be sure)
|
Putting slight amount of fluid gasket on the timing box.
|
When the timing halve has been fitted you should make a test to check weather the return suction joint are air tight - I took a rubber hose and placed on the suction tube (near the sump plate) and placed my finger on the hole where the oil pump is fitted, and started to suck. This should be completely air tight.
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Next was the cylinder barrel and head.
|
|
|
|
If the timing chain are the endless one, it has to be fitted with the sprocket, other wise its not possible to get it on.
|
|
The ignition and dynamo is inspected - I checked that it was functioning bu getting a electric jilt when turning it by hand. (It can have other faults, even though this is possible)
|
|
|
|
The engine is ready, now I just want to make the bike roadworthy - I found that the rear wheel bearing was badly worn, so it had to be changed. (Don't worry, it will also have to be painted at some point in time)
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Back to start page HOME
Get your Ariel things here www.draganfly.co.uk.
Rear light improvement
This is an experiment with making the Lucas Lighting system more efficient on my bikes. I really thing its a bit overshoot to have a 15W bulb fitted at the rear. I made simple circuit with 3 rows of 8 HB (High Bright) LEDs. Each row draws about 150 mA. - So At normal light it draws 150 mA, and when the brake light are applied, It draws a staggering 450 mA ( 0.45 A ). And the LEDs has another great property, they are 100% shock resistant, and almost never has to be replaced. No more changing the rear bulbs on my bike...
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Please observe that I have removed the internals of an old bulb, so no changes are made to the bulb holder.
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Here you will se the diagram - This is for 6 Volt only:
Rear light .jpg (43333 bytes)
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If you would like a diagram the 12 V version of the Light, Please email, and I will make it and post it on this page.
Ariel Bobber
I decided to try to make a Bobbing project of my VB600, to se if I could make a Ariel that would apeal more to the younger Generation.
Warning: no parts were hurt, destroyed or molested during this operation. Bobbed parts were made from old parts that needed restoration anyway like the rear wheel. Instead of dismantling the functioning rear wheel to use the hub in another rim, I found a unrestored rear wheel and restored the hub for the new rim.
This is th reason why I dismantled the Top, and decided to give the bike a complete overhaul... and eventually try to BOB the bike..
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Another Ariel VB600
As i dismantled the bike I found that the primary chain has suffered from the sudden engine siesure, Bits of the thain rollers had broken in half !!!
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Taking before photos of the rear, as I will be aiming for a wider rim for the bobber..
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Taking the bike apart, This is a joy when you know its going to be as new when its assempled again.
Everything returned from Sandblasting, and are send to Powder coating, Shiny Black.
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I found a doner rear wheel for the new rim. Spokes are cut and the hub restored with mat-black paint, my favorite.
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Testing out the new WM5 rim and the hub on the frame.. Rim not fitted yet.
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Fitting the new rim on the restored hub, Fits perfectly.
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Now the rim is loosly fitted to the hub, and placed on the bike for measurement. I need to locate the correct tire before the complete tighten of spokes, as a slight offset migh be needed to accomodate for this extheme wide rim (-:
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Received the Tire for the Rear rim, and when not inflated it shows 14 cm, and I have calculated that I will accept 13 cm. So I will have to dismantle the rim,spokes and hub, and fit the tire on the rim, and do the measurements.
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Tire on the rim, and it shows a clean 13 cm, as requited. So that is satisfactory. Now I need to get the rim set according to the calculations on the map below:
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Crude map descriping how the rim, tire and frame all fit together, in the new setup, Note the 5 mm Offset.
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The workshed... Ariel parts accumulates like Dust ...
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Now the Rear wheel is in its place, and what a sight... I realy like the look at the Rear on the bike now. Not it only needs a Nice looking Rear fender... Comming soon.
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The Mudguard needs a repair before it will be used again, so some welding is needed...
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The Lucas switch is not god, as it locks up... Fixed by rebore of Aluminium, and fit a brass sleve... It works like a charm
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This tank needs some fixing... Or another tank...
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And Dont forget the KG either ..
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Recieved my Rear fender and drag bar. This is a crude look of the bike, but the rear fender will be shortenen, and made to fir slightly better than what is seen on the pictures above.
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The Frame will be supported at the end, and a frame to fit the Number plate will be made to fit the side of the fender support. To do this leagaly, you will have to comply with the following:
- The numberplate should be readable from an angle of 45 degrees to the sides
- It must be over 30 cm over the ground.
- It must not be tilted more than 30 degrees from vertical position.
- Must be supplied with numberplate light (Not red rear light)
- Rear fender must be supplied with rear light + brake light. (not the numberplate light)
Making the Numberplate mount:
Making the Seat:
Trying out some different Seat Arrangements..
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Making the seat from soft/hard foam, I thought this was a challenge, but it was prety straight foreward. - Please have a look at the Seat on my bike on the later photos below.
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Just trying out my Old School Sparto Rear light on the mudguard.
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hmmm Yes that me.. in action
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Making room for the rear chain..
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Just received the Cylinder and Head from the local machine shop.. Painted Oven Black, and baked in the oven to harden the paint. - I know that the top should not be black, but As some of the finns were gone, and this top isnt the best looking on the planet, I painted it black to increase the HEat radiation, and eventually it will be swapped with a better top.
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(The machine shop did not check the flow of the crank, the oil will actually drain out of the hole next to the nut.. Need to figure out how to fix this...) I took it back to the machine shop, and they placed a washer, so the hole was now closed. This was acceptable again.
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Building the engine op again and fittin on the bike.
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Taking the Bike out in the sun in its full glory, HAving fitted the Old Gas tank for test, but its not the tank that is supposed to be fitted at the end..... for that I have more stream lined Plans.
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Remember to but Metal strips on the inside of the fender to support the wites for the Rear light.
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Taking the Ariel out in the sun, Almost done before starting it.
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The Charge relay can not be mounted under the seat, so it has found a permanent place on the rear fender under the new seat close to the Battery box.
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This is the smart (2-in-1) )number plate lights.
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My fenders send to the Painter,
Recieved the fenders from the painter, and that is realy an impressive job!!
Mounting the fenders
A stand is needed for this, as the front wheel needs to go off to fit the front fender.
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And the finished result (Tha Daaaaa):
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Funny enough, it looks like amoped when a person of 2 meters are sitting on it (-:
Rear light improvement
This is an experiment with making the Lucas Lighting system more efficient on my bikes. I really thing its a bit overshoot to have a 15W bulb fitted at the rear. I made simple circuit with 3 rows of 8 HB (High Bright) LEDs. Each row draws about 150 mA. - So At normal light it draws 150 mA, and when the brake light are applied, It draws a staggering 450 mA ( 0.45 A ). And the LEDs has another great property, they are 100% shock resistant, and almost never has to be replaced. No more changing the rear bulbs on my bike...
|
|
|
|
|
Please observe that I have removed the internals of an old bulb, so no changes are made to the bulb holder.
|
|
Here you will se the diagram - This is for 6 Volt only:
If you would like a diagram the 12 V version of the Light, Please email, and I will make it and post it on this page.
Back to start page HOME
Get your Ariel things here www.draganfly.co.uk.
Front fork dismantle tool
I have received a question on how the tool for dismantling the front for looks like. The tool shown in the pictures are made myself, and works quite well. forktool.jpg (11205 bytes) Crude measurement picture of the fork tool.
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