Ariel VB600 Bobber Building/Rebuilding

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Ariel VB600 Building
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Kim Mortensens 1953 Ariel VB 600 page
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YES I GOT A VB!!! Now its time to do some Single.
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127-2762_IMG.JPG (43049 bytes) This is the first bike I own that has a Speedo.
 +
 
 +
127-2765_IMG.JPG (41070 bytes)127-2766_IMG.JPG (43408 bytes)127-2767_IMG.JPG (26917 bytes)
 +
 
 +
127-2759_IMG.JPG (36946 bytes)127-2760_IMG.JPG (47926 bytes)127-2771_IMG.JPG (62758 bytes) Removing the timing cover.
 +
 
 +
127-2763_IMG.JPG (20221 bytes)127-2769_IMG.JPG (49028 bytes)127-2770_IMG.JPG (57338 bytes)127-2772_IMG.JPG (46782 bytes)127-2774_IMG.JPG (44564 bytes) Oil pump etc.
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127-2775_IMG.JPG (39625 bytes) Lots of buildup of excess fluid gasket - I wonder how the sludge trap looks.
 +
 
 +
127-2776_IMG.JPG (49076 bytes)127-2777_IMG.JPG (45936 bytes)127-2778_IMG.JPG (44880 bytes) Is it normal to have them to much off center?
 +
 
 +
127-2779_IMG.JPG (42836 bytes)127-2780_IMG.JPG (42815 bytes) Its going to be a real hassle to get this pinion off, It has bee grinding the crancase!!
 +
 
 +
127-2761_IMG.JPG (43044 bytes)127-2768_IMG.JPG (48194 bytes) Removing the Drive side cover.
 +
 
 +
127-2781_IMG.JPG (45438 bytes)127-2784_IMG.JPG (39714 bytes)127-2785_IMG.JPG (41737 bytes)127-2786_IMG.JPG (44428 bytes) Engine removed and inspected
 +
 
 +
127-2787_IMG.JPG (39608 bytes)127-2788_IMG.JPG (49820 bytes)127-2790_IMG.JPG (47718 bytes)127-2789_IMG.JPG (46001 bytes)127-2792_IMG.JPG (42650 bytes)127-2791_IMG.JPG (37736 bytes)127-2793_IMG.JPG (35975 bytes) Cylinder + piston + Head looks fine
 +
 
 +
127-2783_IMG.JPG (37377 bytes)127-2782_IMG.JPG (45869 bytes) VB without motor.
 +
 
 +
127-2794_IMG.JPG (49040 bytes) My temporary workshop (in 5 degrees freeeeeezing).
 +
 
 +
127-2795_IMG.JPG (47912 bytes)127-2796_IMG.JPG (45637 bytes) Transport to better locations
 +
 
 +
127-2797_IMG.JPG (45473 bytes)127-2798_IMG.JPG (41812 bytes)127-2799_IMG.JPG (29990 bytes)127-2800_IMG.JPG (35830 bytes)128-2801_IMG.JPG (37901 bytes) Now I need to dismantle some of the last bits, and then its all going to be properly cleaned, for final inspection.
 +
 
 +
128-2822_IMG.JPG (17418 bytes)128-2823_IMG.JPG (18294 bytes)128-2824_IMG.JPG (25992 bytes)128-2825_IMG.JPG (27849 bytes)128-2827_IMG.JPG (32453 bytes) This shock absorber arrangement is ok, even though they dont seem to look right.
 +
 
 +
The Assembly:
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 +
The parts are now properly cleaned and ready for inspection and assembly:
 +
 
 +
128-2842_IMG.JPG (84633 bytes)128-2841_IMG.JPG (84812 bytes)129-2957_IMG.JPG (67557 bytes)129-2958_IMG.JPG (63833 bytes)129-2959_IMG.JPG (77020 bytes)129-2960_IMG.JPG (69358 bytes)129-2961_IMG.JPG (82173 bytes)128-2840_IMG.JPG (72375 bytes)
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It was quickly obvious that a new cam bus was needed, so the old one was removed.
 +
 
 +
128-2839_IMG.JPG (98643 bytes)
 +
 
 +
128-2843_IMG.JPG (86988 bytes) Barrel looks great
 +
 
 +
128-2860_IMG.JPG (94184 bytes) Placing the Cam bush with a screw and center spacers to assure a straight pull, and it does not jam on the way.
 +
 
 +
130-3065_IMG.JPG (39096 bytes)130-3066_IMG.JPG (41278 bytes)130-3067_IMG.JPG (31205 bytes)130-3069_IMG.JPG (36771 bytes)130-3068_IMG.JPG (23673 bytes) Reaming the Cam Bush - Please note the bush spacer that keeps the reamer in line, and does a perfect job. - The Reamer Was borrowed from Henrik Larsen from the Danish Ariel Klub
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 +
130-3070_IMG.JPG (37434 bytes)130-3071_IMG.JPG (39315 bytes)130-3073_IMG.JPG (37823 bytes)128-2863_IMG.JPG (72382 bytes)128-2864_IMG.JPG (50664 bytes) Now I have to shim the crankshaft with the crankcase.
 +
 
 +
130-3072_IMG.JPG (57536 bytes) Just a moment-photo of my tool shed - its pure pleasure to do Ariel there - When its warm (-:
 +
 
 +
130-3074_IMG.JPG (35748 bytes) The two cams, The old one have to be redone somehow - The new one was purchased from Jørgen Andersen.
 +
 
 +
131-3151_IMG.JPG (38566 bytes)131-3152_IMG.JPG (34603 bytes)131-3153_IMG.JPG (40313 bytes)131-3154_IMG.JPG (34542 bytes) The halfs have been prepared and the shimming is finished, so the halved can be put together for good.
 +
 
 +
131-3164_IMG.JPG (33421 bytes)131-3163_IMG.JPG (37071 bytes)131-3156_IMG.JPG (41065 bytes)131-3157_IMG.JPG (35690 bytes)131-3158_IMG.JPG (34393 bytes) The halves are carefully cleaned with alcohol, and the sealing compound is put on both halves.
 +
 
 +
131-3159_IMG.JPG (32377 bytes)131-3160_IMG.JPG (41134 bytes)131-3161_IMG.JPG (40030 bytes)131-3162_IMG.JPG (38748 bytes) The halves are put together, and the end clearance is checked once again.
 +
 
 +
131-3165_IMG.JPG (34352 bytes)131-3166_IMG.JPG (31669 bytes)131-3167_IMG.JPG (42803 bytes)131-3168_IMG.JPG (45087 bytes)131-3169_IMG.JPG (28654 bytes)131-3171_IMG.JPG (28038 bytes)131-3172_IMG.JPG (37986 bytes)131-3173_IMG.JPG (38335 bytes) Now its time to fit the CAM and the cam followers. Please make sure the lube before fitting, as the first starting of the engine will be without that much lube, until the oil is circulating properly.
 +
 
 +
131-3155_IMG.JPG (48143 bytes) I made some slight modifications to the gasket, to make it fit the timing side - Otherwise it would not be a perfect fit. I took off aboit 1-2 mm at the side.
 +
 
 +
132-3204_IMG.JPG (41868 bytes) Make sure to place the extra gasket at the oil return suction joint. (Use very little fluid gasket on each side to be sure)
 +
 
 +
132-3205_IMG.JPG (36200 bytes) Putting slight amount of fluid gasket on the timing box.
 +
 
 +
132-3207_IMG.JPG (36857 bytes)132-3206_IMG.JPG (39013 bytes) When the timing halve has been fitted you should make a test to check weather the return suction joint are air tight - I took a rubber hose and placed on the suction tube (near the sump plate) and placed my finger on the hole where the oil pump is fitted, and started to suck. This should be completely air tight.
 +
 
 +
131-3174_IMG.JPG (42063 bytes)131-3175_IMG.JPG (45183 bytes)131-3176_IMG.JPG (42676 bytes)131-3177_IMG.JPG (44702 bytes) Next was the cylinder barrel and head.
 +
 
 +
132-3208_IMG.JPG (44820 bytes)132-3209_IMG.JPG (42196 bytes) If the timing chain are the endless one, it has to be fitted with the sprocket, other wise its not possible to get it on.
 +
 
 +
132-3210_IMG.JPG (40658 bytes)132-3211_IMG.JPG (32281 bytes)132-3212_IMG.JPG (36317 bytes)132-3213_IMG.JPG (29429 bytes) The ignition and dynamo is inspected - I checked that it was functioning bu getting a electric jilt when turning it by hand. (It can have other faults, even though this is possible)
 +
 
 +
131-3188_IMG.JPG (49709 bytes)131-3189_IMG.JPG (53969 bytes)131-3195_IMG.JPG (47257 bytes)131-3196_IMG.JPG (43699 bytes)132-3201_IMG.JPG (41201 bytes) the engine is ready, now I just want to make the bike roadworthy - I found that the rear wheel bearing was badly worn, so it had to be changed. (Don't worry, it will also have to be painted at some point in time)
 +
 
 +
Make your own Front fork dismantle tool.
 +
 
 +
132-3283_IMG.JPG (42498 bytes)132-3284_IMG.JPG (46879 bytes)132-3285_IMG.JPG (34899 bytes)132-3286_IMG.JPG (35140 bytes)132-3287_IMG.JPG (34198 bytes)132-3288_IMG.JPG (32160 bytes)132-3289_IMG.JPG (45992 bytes)132-3290_IMG.JPG (45239 bytes) I have received a question on how the tool for dismantling the front for looks like. The tool shown in the pictures are made myself, and works quite well. forktool.jpg (11205 bytes) Crude measurement picture of the fork tool.
 +
 
 +
127-2762_IMG.JPG (43049 bytes) This is the first bike I own that has a Speedo.
 +
 
 +
127-2765_IMG.JPG (41070 bytes)127-2766_IMG.JPG (43408 bytes)127-2767_IMG.JPG (26917 bytes)
 +
 
 +
127-2759_IMG.JPG (36946 bytes)127-2760_IMG.JPG (47926 bytes)127-2771_IMG.JPG (62758 bytes) Removing the timing cover.
 +
 
 +
127-2763_IMG.JPG (20221 bytes)127-2769_IMG.JPG (49028 bytes)127-2770_IMG.JPG (57338 bytes)127-2772_IMG.JPG (46782 bytes)127-2774_IMG.JPG (44564 bytes) Oil pump etc.
 +
 
 +
127-2775_IMG.JPG (39625 bytes) Lots of buildup of excess fluid gasket - I wonder how the sludge trap looks.
 +
 
 +
127-2776_IMG.JPG (49076 bytes)127-2777_IMG.JPG (45936 bytes)127-2778_IMG.JPG (44880 bytes) Is it normal to have them to much off center?
 +
 
 +
127-2779_IMG.JPG (42836 bytes)127-2780_IMG.JPG (42815 bytes) Its going to be a real hassle to get this pinion off, It has bee grinding the crancase!!
 +
 
 +
127-2761_IMG.JPG (43044 bytes)127-2768_IMG.JPG (48194 bytes) Removing the Drive side cover.
 +
 
 +
127-2781_IMG.JPG (45438 bytes)127-2784_IMG.JPG (39714 bytes)127-2785_IMG.JPG (41737 bytes)127-2786_IMG.JPG (44428 bytes) Engine removed and inspected
 +
 
 +
127-2787_IMG.JPG (39608 bytes)127-2788_IMG.JPG (49820 bytes)127-2790_IMG.JPG (47718 bytes)127-2789_IMG.JPG (46001 bytes)127-2792_IMG.JPG (42650 bytes)127-2791_IMG.JPG (37736 bytes)127-2793_IMG.JPG (35975 bytes) Cylinder + piston + Head looks fine
 +
 
 +
127-2783_IMG.JPG (37377 bytes)127-2782_IMG.JPG (45869 bytes) VB without motor.
 +
 
 +
127-2794_IMG.JPG (49040 bytes) My temporary workshop (in 5 degrees freeeeeezing).
 +
 
 +
127-2795_IMG.JPG (47912 bytes)127-2796_IMG.JPG (45637 bytes) Transport to better locations
 +
 
 +
127-2797_IMG.JPG (45473 bytes)127-2798_IMG.JPG (41812 bytes)127-2799_IMG.JPG (29990 bytes)127-2800_IMG.JPG (35830 bytes)128-2801_IMG.JPG (37901 bytes) Now I need to dismantle some of the last bits, and then its all going to be properly cleaned, for final inspection.
 +
 
 +
128-2822_IMG.JPG (17418 bytes)128-2823_IMG.JPG (18294 bytes)128-2824_IMG.JPG (25992 bytes)128-2825_IMG.JPG (27849 bytes)128-2827_IMG.JPG (32453 bytes) This shock absorber arrangement is ok, even though they dont seem to look right.
 +
 
 +
The Assembly:
 +
 
 +
The parts are now properly cleaned and ready for inspection and assembly:
 +
 
 +
128-2842_IMG.JPG (84633 bytes)128-2841_IMG.JPG (84812 bytes)129-2957_IMG.JPG (67557 bytes)129-2958_IMG.JPG (63833 bytes)129-2959_IMG.JPG (77020 bytes)129-2960_IMG.JPG (69358 bytes)129-2961_IMG.JPG (82173 bytes)128-2840_IMG.JPG (72375 bytes)
 +
 
 +
It was quickly obvious that a new cam bus was needed, so the old one was removed.
 +
 
 +
128-2839_IMG.JPG (98643 bytes)
 +
 
 +
128-2843_IMG.JPG (86988 bytes) Barrel looks great
 +
 
 +
128-2860_IMG.JPG (94184 bytes) Placing the Cam bush with a screw and center spacers to assure a straight pull, and it does not jam on the way.
 +
 
 +
130-3065_IMG.JPG (39096 bytes)130-3066_IMG.JPG (41278 bytes)130-3067_IMG.JPG (31205 bytes)130-3069_IMG.JPG (36771 bytes)130-3068_IMG.JPG (23673 bytes) Reaming the Cam Bush - Please note the bush spacer that keeps the reamer in line, and does a perfect job. - The Reamer Was borrowed from Henrik Larsen from the Danish Ariel Klub
 +
 
 +
130-3070_IMG.JPG (37434 bytes)130-3071_IMG.JPG (39315 bytes)130-3073_IMG.JPG (37823 bytes)128-2863_IMG.JPG (72382 bytes)128-2864_IMG.JPG (50664 bytes) Now I have to shim the crankshaft with the crankcase.
 +
 
 +
130-3072_IMG.JPG (57536 bytes) Just a moment-photo of my tool shed - its pure pleasure to do Ariel there - When its warm (-:
 +
 
 +
130-3074_IMG.JPG (35748 bytes) The two cams, The old one have to be redone somehow - The new one was purchased from Jørgen Andersen.
 +
 
 +
131-3151_IMG.JPG (38566 bytes)131-3152_IMG.JPG (34603 bytes)131-3153_IMG.JPG (40313 bytes)131-3154_IMG.JPG (34542 bytes) The halfs have been prepared and the shimming is finished, so the halved can be put together for good.
 +
 
 +
131-3164_IMG.JPG (33421 bytes)131-3163_IMG.JPG (37071 bytes)131-3156_IMG.JPG (41065 bytes)131-3157_IMG.JPG (35690 bytes)131-3158_IMG.JPG (34393 bytes) The halves are carefully cleaned with alcohol, and the sealing compound is put on both halves.
 +
 
 +
131-3159_IMG.JPG (32377 bytes)131-3160_IMG.JPG (41134 bytes)131-3161_IMG.JPG (40030 bytes)131-3162_IMG.JPG (38748 bytes) The halves are put together, and the end clearance is checked once again.
 +
 
 +
131-3165_IMG.JPG (34352 bytes)131-3166_IMG.JPG (31669 bytes)131-3167_IMG.JPG (42803 bytes)131-3168_IMG.JPG (45087 bytes)131-3169_IMG.JPG (28654 bytes)131-3171_IMG.JPG (28038 bytes)131-3172_IMG.JPG (37986 bytes)131-3173_IMG.JPG (38335 bytes) Now its time to fit the CAM and the cam followers. Please make sure the lube before fitting, as the first starting of the engine will be without that much lube, until the oil is circulating properly.
 +
 
 +
131-3155_IMG.JPG (48143 bytes) I made some slight modifications to the gasket, to make it fit the timing side - Otherwise it would not be a perfect fit. I took off aboit 1-2 mm at the side.
 +
 
 +
132-3204_IMG.JPG (41868 bytes) Make sure to place the extra gasket at the oil return suction joint. (Use very little fluid gasket on each side to be sure)
 +
 
 +
132-3205_IMG.JPG (36200 bytes) Putting slight amount of fluid gasket on the timing box.
 +
 
 +
132-3207_IMG.JPG (36857 bytes)132-3206_IMG.JPG (39013 bytes) When the timing halve has been fitted you should make a test to check weather the return suction joint are air tight - I took a rubber hose and placed on the suction tube (near the sump plate) and placed my finger on the hole where the oil pump is fitted, and started to suck. This should be completely air tight.
 +
 
 +
131-3174_IMG.JPG (42063 bytes)131-3175_IMG.JPG (45183 bytes)131-3176_IMG.JPG (42676 bytes)131-3177_IMG.JPG (44702 bytes) Next was the cylinder barrel and head.
 +
 
 +
132-3208_IMG.JPG (44820 bytes)132-3209_IMG.JPG (42196 bytes) If the timing chain are the endless one, it has to be fitted with the sprocket, other wise its not possible to get it on.
 +
 
 +
132-3210_IMG.JPG (40658 bytes)132-3211_IMG.JPG (32281 bytes)132-3212_IMG.JPG (36317 bytes)132-3213_IMG.JPG (29429 bytes) The ignition and dynamo is inspected - I checked that it was functioning bu getting a electric jilt when turning it by hand. (It can have other faults, even though this is possible)
 +
 
 +
131-3188_IMG.JPG (49709 bytes)131-3189_IMG.JPG (53969 bytes)131-3195_IMG.JPG (47257 bytes)131-3196_IMG.JPG (43699 bytes)132-3201_IMG.JPG (41201 bytes) the engine is ready, now I just want to make the bike roadworthy - I found that the rear wheel bearing was badly worn, so it had to be changed. (Don't worry, it will also have to be painted at some point in time)
 +
 
 +
Back to start page HOME
 +
Get your Ariel things here www.draganfly.co.uk.
 +
 
 +
== Rear light improvement ==
 +
 
 +
132-3291_IMG.JPG (23816 bytes)132-3292_IMG.JPG (39165 bytes)132-3295_IMG.JPG (38886 bytes)132-3296_IMG.JPG (51569 bytes)132-3297_IMG.JPG (31101 bytes) This is an experiment with making the Lucas Lighting system more efficient on my bikes. I really thing its a bit overshoot to have a 15W bulb fitted at the rear. I made simple circuit with 3 rows of 8 HB (High Bright) LEDs. Each row draws about 150 mA. - So At normal light it draws 150 mA, and when the brake light are applied, It draws a staggering 450 mA ( 0.45 A ). And the LEDs has another great property, they are 100% shock resistant, and almost never has to be replaced. No more changing the rear bulbs on my bike...
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 +
132-3293_IMG.JPG (37601 bytes)132-3294_IMG.JPG (26369 bytes) Please observe that I have removed the internals of an old bulb, so no changes are made to the bulb holder.
 +
 
 +
Here you will se the diagram - This is for 6 Volt only:
 +
 
 +
Rear_light_.jpg (43333 bytes)
 +
 
 +
If you would like a diagram the 12 V version of the Light, Please email, and I will make it and post it on this page.
 +
 
 +
 +
 
 +
MORE TO COME
 +
 
 +
Back to start page HOME
 +
Get your Ariel things here www.draganfly.co.uk.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Ariel Bobber ==
 +
I decided to try to make a Bobbing project of my VB600, to se if I could make a Ariel that would apeal more to the younger Generation.
 +
 
 +
Warning: no parts were hurt, destroyed or molested during this operation. Bobbed parts were made from old parts that needed restoration anyway like the rear wheel. Instead of dismantling the functioning rear wheel to use the hub in another rim, I found a unrestored rear wheel and restored the hub for the new rim.
 +
 
 +
img_4379.jpg (53772 bytes)img_4385.jpg (60858 bytes)img_4386.jpg (62926 bytes) This is th reason why I dismantled the Top, and decided to give the bike a complete overhaul... and eventually try to BOB the bike..
 +
 
 +
arska.jpg (13983 bytes) A Nicely done Ariel VB Bobbed unfortunately not mine (-:
 +
 
 +
Ariel bobber.jpg (55035 bytes) Very Cool Ariel - I guess the engine is the only part from Ariel left on this bike ??? 
 +
 
 +
Ariel bobber_3.jpg (69801 bytes) Hmm, Wonder how he did the wide Rear tire.. but Cool Ariel ???
 +
 
 +
Another Areil VB600
 +
 
 +
 +
 
 +
img_4405.jpg (80402 bytes)img_4406.jpg (62348 bytes) As i dismantled the bike I found that the primary chain has suffered from the sudden engine siesure, Bits of the thain rollers had broken in half !!!
 +
 
 +
img_4401.jpg (95103 bytes)img_4403.jpg (82394 bytes) Taking before photos of the rear, as I will be aiming for a wider rim for the bobber..
 +
 
 +
img_4397.jpg (92676 bytes)img_4399.jpg (85098 bytes)img_4407.jpg (116955 bytes)img_4409.jpg (95846 bytes)img_4408.jpg (126207 bytes)img_4416.jpg (122351 bytes)img_4415.jpg (117662 bytes)img_4417.jpg (113452 bytes)
 +
 
 +
Taking the bike apart, This is a joy when you know its going to be as new when its assempled again.
 +
 
 +
img_4633.jpg (61168 bytes)img_4635.jpg (99824 bytes) Everything returned from Sandblasting, and are send to Powder coating, Shiny Black.
 +
 
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img_5186.jpg (87696 bytes)img_5187.jpg (74046 bytes) I found a doner rear wheel for the new rim. Spokes are cut and the hub restored with mat-black paint, my favorite.
 +
 
 +
img_5320.jpg (88590 bytes)img_5321.jpg (92694 bytes) Testing out the new WM5 rim and the hub on the frame.. Rim not fitted yet.
 +
 
 +
img_5328.jpg (54381 bytes)img_5326.jpg (90705 bytes)img_5329.jpg (87305 bytes)img_5330.jpg (76172 bytes)img_5331.jpg (81559 bytes)img_5332.jpg (96077 bytes) Fitting the new rim on the restored hub, Fits perfectly.
 +
 
 +
img_5324.jpg (79159 bytes)img_5323.jpg (82899 bytes)IMG_5479.JPG (86433 bytes)IMG_5480.JPG (93749 bytes)IMG_5481.JPG (98054 bytes)IMG_5482.JPG (87877 bytes)IMG_5483.JPG (95513 bytes) Now the rim is loosly fitted to the hub, and placed on the bike for measurement. I need to locate the correct tire before the complete tighten of spokes, as a slight offset migh be needed to accomodate for this extheme wide rim (-:
 +
 
 +
IMG_5526.jpg (21248 bytes)IMG_5528.jpg (18841 bytes)IMG_5534.jpg (20071 bytes) Received the Tire for the Rear rim, and when not inflated it shows 14 cm, and I have calculated that I will accept 13 cm. So I will have to dismantle the rim,spokes and hub, and fit the tire on the rim, and do the measurements:
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 +
IMG_5535.jpg (23267 bytes)IMG_5536.jpg (26133 bytes) Hub dismantled again.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5537.jpg (29267 bytes)IMG_5538.jpg (26890 bytes)IMG_5539.jpg (16032 bytes) Tire on the rim, and it shows a clean 13 cm, as requited. So that is satisfactory. Now I need to get the rim set according to the calculations on the map below:
 +
 
 +
rimcalc.jpg (35219 bytes) Crude map descriping how the rim, tire and frame all fit together, in the new setup, Note the 5 mm Offset.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5484.JPG (100817 bytes)IMG_5485.JPG (85266 bytes) The workshed... Ariel parts accumulates like Dust ...
 +
 
 +
IMG_5576.JPG (81449 bytes)IMG_5577.JPG (90795 bytes)IMG_5578.JPG (91237 bytes)IMG_5579.JPG (95678 bytes)IMG_5580.JPG (97709 bytes)IMG_5581.JPG (92480 bytes)IMG_5582.JPG (90725 bytes)IMG_5584.JPG (87997 bytes)IMG_5585.JPG (70697 bytes)IMG_5586.JPG (95259 bytes) Now the Rear wheel is in its place, and what a sight... I realy like the look at the Rear on the bike now. Not it only needs a Nice looking Rear fender... Comming soon.
 +
 
 +
 +
 
 +
IMG_5559.JPG (58583 bytes)IMG_5561.JPG (47676 bytes)IMG_5563.JPG (58333 bytes)IMG_5564.JPG (57489 bytes)IMG_5565.JPG (47581 bytes)IMG_5566.JPG (44918 bytes)IMG_5567.JPG (49380 bytes)IMG_5568.JPG (50867 bytes)  The Mudguard needs a repair before it will be used again, so some welding is needed...
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IMG_5571.JPG (39097 bytes) The Locas switch is not god, as it locks up... Fixed by rebore of Aluminium, and fit a brass sleve... It works like a charm
 +
 
 +
IMG_5572.JPG (44315 bytes) This tank needs some fixing... Or another tank...
 +
 
 +
IMG_5587.JPG (94578 bytes) And Dont forget the KG either ..
 +
 
 +
IMG_5605.jpg (29395 bytes)IMG_5606.jpg (26058 bytes)IMG_5607.jpg (36166 bytes)IMG_5608.jpg (37562 bytes)IMG_5609.jpg (37747 bytes)IMG_5610.jpg (36850 bytes)IMG_5611.jpg (36578 bytes) Recieved my Rear fender and drag bar. This is a crude look of the bike, but the rear fender will be shortenen, and made to fir slightly better than what is seen on the pictures above.
 +
 
 +
The Frame will be supported at the end, and a frame to fit the Number plate will be made to fit the side of the fender support. To do this leagaly, you will have to comply with the following:
 +
 
 +
- The numberplate should be readable from an angle of 45 degrees to the sides
 +
- It must be over 30 cm over the ground.
 +
- It must not be tilted more than 30 degrees from vertical position.
 +
- Must be supplied with numberplate light (Not red rear light)
 +
- Rear fender must be supplied with rear light + brake light. (not the numberplate light)
 +
 
 +
Making the Numberplate mount:
 +
 
 +
IMG_5668.JPG (33254 bytes)IMG_5669.JPG (31024 bytes)IMG_5670.JPG (23387 bytes)IMG_5667.JPG (26627 bytes)IMG_5673.JPG (62501 bytes)IMG_5671.JPG (47524 bytes)IMG_5672.JPG (55748 bytes)
 +
 
 +
Making the Seat:
 +
 
 +
IMG_5662.JPG (30460 bytes)IMG_5663.JPG (17899 bytes) Trying out some different Seat Arrangements..
 +
 
 +
IMG_5666.JPG (21716 bytes)IMG_5665.JPG (27042 bytes)IMG_5731.JPG (19023 bytes)IMG_5730.JPG (23898 bytes)IMG_5732.JPG (22087 bytes)IMG_5733.JPG (18670 bytes)IMG_5734.JPG (20836 bytes)IMG_5735.JPG (26559 bytes)IMG_5737.JPG (27880 bytes)IMG_5736.JPG (24902 bytes)IMG_5745.JPG (26362 bytes)IMG_5746.JPG (25981 bytes)IMG_5747.JPG (25966 bytes)IMG_5748.JPG (21398 bytes)IMG_5749.JPG (29766 bytes)IMG_5750.JPG (28798 bytes)IMG_5752.JPG (25614 bytes)IMG_5751.JPG (28752 bytes)IMG_5753.JPG (26354 bytes) Making the seat from soft/hard foam, I thought this was a challenge, but it was prety straight foreward. - Please have a look at the Seat on my bike on the later photos below.
 +
 
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IMG_5664.JPG (21976 bytes) Just trying out my Old School Sparto Rear light on the mudguard.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5677.JPG (24737 bytes) hmmm Yes that me.. in action
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IMG_5678.JPG (21126 bytes) Making room for the rear chain..
 +
 
 +
IMG_5739.JPG (23778 bytes)IMG_5740.JPG (23205 bytes)IMG_5759.JPG (38509 bytes)IMG_5760.JPG (35216 bytes)IMG_5761.JPG (29610 bytes)IMG_5762.JPG (20517 bytes)IMG_5763.JPG (19214 bytes)IMG_5764.JPG (24739 bytes)IMG_5765.JPG (32124 bytes) Just received the Cylinder and Head from the local machine shop.. Painted Oven Black, and baked in the oven to harden the paint. - I know that the top should not be black, but As some of the finns were gone, and this top isnt the best looking on the planet, I painted it black to increase the HEat radiation, and eventually it will be swapped with a better top.
 +
 
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IMG_5742.JPG (29983 bytes) (The machine shop did not check the flow of the crank, the oil will actually drain out of the hole next to the nut.. Need to figure out how to fix this...) I took it back to the machine shop, and they placed a washer, so the hole was now closed. This was acceptable again.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5770.JPG (28216 bytes)IMG_5771.JPG (24522 bytes) Building the engine op again and fittin on the bike.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5769.JPG (27911 bytes)IMG_5772.JPG (28895 bytes)IMG_5773.JPG (28962 bytes) Fitting the Piston.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5774.JPG (28058 bytes)IMG_5775.JPG (32008 bytes)IMG_5788.JPG (34833 bytes)IMG_5789.JPG (39037 bytes)IMG_5791.JPG (36574 bytes)IMG_5792.JPG (32697 bytes)IMG_5794.JPG (29955 bytes)IMG_5796.JPG (35009 bytes)IMG_5797.JPG (37990 bytes)IMG_5798.JPG (35194 bytes)IMG_5790.JPG (68061 bytes)IMG_5795.JPG (66748 bytes)IMG_5793.JPG (66236 bytes) Taking the Bike out in the sun in its full glory, HAving fitted the Old Gas tank for test, but its not the tank that is supposed to be fitted at the end..... for that I have more stream lined Plans.
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 +
IMG_5815.JPG (29767 bytes)IMG_5816.JPG (28266 bytes) I got the tank today.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5823.JPG (29136 bytes) Remember to but Metal strips on the inside of the fender to support the wites for the Rear light.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5817.JPG (29218 bytes)IMG_5824.JPG (28636 bytes)IMG_5826.JPG (30883 bytes)IMG_5827.JPG (29425 bytes)IMG_5825.JPG (29175 bytes)IMG_5818.JPG (26569 bytes)IMG_5819.JPG (24873 bytes)IMG_5820.JPG (27941 bytes)IMG_5821.JPG (29633 bytes) Taking the Ariel out in the sun, Almost done before starting it.
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IMG_5859.JPG (32659 bytes)IMG_5860.JPG (28416 bytes)IMG_5861.JPG (28782 bytes)IMG_5862.JPG (34670 bytes)IMG_5863.JPG (34166 bytes)IMG_5864.JPG (32055 bytes)IMG_5865.JPG (30648 bytes)
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IMG_5866.JPG (23155 bytes)IMG_5867.JPG (30726 bytes) The Charge relay can not be mounted under the seat, so it has found a permanent place on the rear fender under the new seat close to the Battery box.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5868.JPG (14295 bytes)IMG_5870.JPG (12351 bytes) This is the smart (2-in-1) )number plate lights.
 +
 
 +
IMG_5869.JPG (21770 bytes) And the rear, light.
 +
 
 +
My fenders send to the Painter,
 +
 
 +
IMG_5887.JPG (37317 bytes)IMG_5888.JPG (28565 bytes)IMG_5891.JPG (33116 bytes)IMG_5889.JPG (32857 bytes)IMG_5900.JPG (37035 bytes)
 +
 
 +
Recieved the fenders from the painter, and that is realy an impressive job!!
 +
 
 +
IMG_5920.JPG (27975 bytes)IMG_5921.JPG (26430 bytes)IMG_5922.JPG (26040 bytes)IMG_5923.JPG (21004 bytes)IMG_5924.JPG (20120 bytes)IMG_5925.JPG (32271 bytes)IMG_5926.JPG (27256 bytes)IMG_5927.JPG (30500 bytes)
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Mounting the fenders
 +
 
 +
IMG_5928.JPG (31968 bytes) a stand is needed for this, as the front wheel needs to go off to fit the front fender.
 +
 
 +
And the finished result (Tha Daaaaa):
 +
 
 +
IMG_5937.JPG (28831 bytes)IMG_5938.JPG (29259 bytes)IMG_5939.JPG (29858 bytes)IMG_5929.JPG (27334 bytes)IMG_5931.JPG (28025 bytes)IMG_5930.JPG (29561 bytes)IMG_5933.JPG (26586 bytes)IMG_5932.JPG (27975 bytes)IMG_5935.JPG (31585 bytes)IMG_5934.JPG (30922 bytes)IMG_5936.JPG (30613 bytes)IMG_5940.JPG (28384 bytes)IMG_5941.JPG (33984 bytes)IMG_5942.JPG (31779 bytes)IMG_5944.JPG (39756 bytes)IMG_5945.JPG (36328 bytes)IMG_5946.JPG (40219 bytes)IMG_5943.JPG (39258 bytes)IMG_5947.JPG (41882 bytes)IMG_5950.JPG (29098 bytes)IMG_5949.JPG (29201 bytes)IMG_5951.JPG (29211 bytes)IMG_5948.JPG (30240 bytes)
 +
 
 +
Funny enough, it looks like amoped when a person of 2 meters are sitting on it (-:
 +
 
 +
IMG_5952.JPG (30895 bytes)IMG_5953.JPG (32474 bytes)IMG_5954.JPG (33333 bytes)
 +
 
 +
Back to start page HOME
 +
Get your Ariel things here www.draganfly.co.uk.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Rear light improvement ==
 +
132-3291_IMG.JPG (23816 bytes)132-3292_IMG.JPG (39165 bytes)132-3295_IMG.JPG (38886 bytes)132-3296_IMG.JPG (51569 bytes)132-3297_IMG.JPG (31101 bytes) This is an experiment with making the Lucas Lighting system more efficient on my bikes. I really thing its a bit overshoot to have a 15W bulb fitted at the rear. I made simple circuit with 3 rows of 8 HB (High Bright) LEDs. Each row draws about 150 mA. - So At normal light it draws 150 mA, and when the brake light are applied, It draws a staggering 450 mA ( 0.45 A ). And the LEDs has another great property, they are 100% shock resistant, and almost never has to be replaced. No more changing the rear bulbs on my bike...
 +
 
 +
132-3293_IMG.JPG (37601 bytes)132-3294_IMG.JPG (26369 bytes) Please observe that I have removed the internals of an old bulb, so no changes are made to the bulb holder.
 +
 
 +
Here you will se the diagram - This is for 6 Volt only:
 +
 
 +
Rear_light_.jpg (43333 bytes)
 +
 
 +
If you would like a diagram the 12 V version of the Light, Please email, and I will make it and post it on this page.
 +
 
 +
Back to start page HOME
 +
Get your Ariel things here www.draganfly.co.uk.
 +
 
 +
== Front fork dismantle tool ==
 +
 
 +
132-3283_IMG.JPG (42498 bytes)132-3284_IMG.JPG (46879 bytes)132-3285_IMG.JPG (34899 bytes)132-3286_IMG.JPG (35140 bytes)132-3287_IMG.JPG (34198 bytes)132-3288_IMG.JPG (32160 bytes)132-3289_IMG.JPG (45992 bytes)132-3290_IMG.JPG (45239 bytes) I have received a question on how the tool for dismantling the front for looks like. The tool shown in the pictures are made myself, and works quite well. forktool.jpg (11205 bytes) Crude measurement picture of the fork tool.
 +
 
 +
Back to start page HOME
 +
Get your Ariel things here www.draganfly.co.uk.

Revision as of 12:24, 30 October 2010

Kim Mortensens 1953 Ariel VB 600 page

YES I GOT A VB!!! Now its time to do some Single.

127-2762_IMG.JPG (43049 bytes) This is the first bike I own that has a Speedo.

127-2765_IMG.JPG (41070 bytes)127-2766_IMG.JPG (43408 bytes)127-2767_IMG.JPG (26917 bytes)

127-2759_IMG.JPG (36946 bytes)127-2760_IMG.JPG (47926 bytes)127-2771_IMG.JPG (62758 bytes) Removing the timing cover.

127-2763_IMG.JPG (20221 bytes)127-2769_IMG.JPG (49028 bytes)127-2770_IMG.JPG (57338 bytes)127-2772_IMG.JPG (46782 bytes)127-2774_IMG.JPG (44564 bytes) Oil pump etc.

127-2775_IMG.JPG (39625 bytes) Lots of buildup of excess fluid gasket - I wonder how the sludge trap looks.

127-2776_IMG.JPG (49076 bytes)127-2777_IMG.JPG (45936 bytes)127-2778_IMG.JPG (44880 bytes) Is it normal to have them to much off center?

127-2779_IMG.JPG (42836 bytes)127-2780_IMG.JPG (42815 bytes) Its going to be a real hassle to get this pinion off, It has bee grinding the crancase!!

127-2761_IMG.JPG (43044 bytes)127-2768_IMG.JPG (48194 bytes) Removing the Drive side cover.

127-2781_IMG.JPG (45438 bytes)127-2784_IMG.JPG (39714 bytes)127-2785_IMG.JPG (41737 bytes)127-2786_IMG.JPG (44428 bytes) Engine removed and inspected

127-2787_IMG.JPG (39608 bytes)127-2788_IMG.JPG (49820 bytes)127-2790_IMG.JPG (47718 bytes)127-2789_IMG.JPG (46001 bytes)127-2792_IMG.JPG (42650 bytes)127-2791_IMG.JPG (37736 bytes)127-2793_IMG.JPG (35975 bytes) Cylinder + piston + Head looks fine

127-2783_IMG.JPG (37377 bytes)127-2782_IMG.JPG (45869 bytes) VB without motor.

127-2794_IMG.JPG (49040 bytes) My temporary workshop (in 5 degrees freeeeeezing).

127-2795_IMG.JPG (47912 bytes)127-2796_IMG.JPG (45637 bytes) Transport to better locations

127-2797_IMG.JPG (45473 bytes)127-2798_IMG.JPG (41812 bytes)127-2799_IMG.JPG (29990 bytes)127-2800_IMG.JPG (35830 bytes)128-2801_IMG.JPG (37901 bytes) Now I need to dismantle some of the last bits, and then its all going to be properly cleaned, for final inspection.

128-2822_IMG.JPG (17418 bytes)128-2823_IMG.JPG (18294 bytes)128-2824_IMG.JPG (25992 bytes)128-2825_IMG.JPG (27849 bytes)128-2827_IMG.JPG (32453 bytes) This shock absorber arrangement is ok, even though they dont seem to look right.

The Assembly:

The parts are now properly cleaned and ready for inspection and assembly:

128-2842_IMG.JPG (84633 bytes)128-2841_IMG.JPG (84812 bytes)129-2957_IMG.JPG (67557 bytes)129-2958_IMG.JPG (63833 bytes)129-2959_IMG.JPG (77020 bytes)129-2960_IMG.JPG (69358 bytes)129-2961_IMG.JPG (82173 bytes)128-2840_IMG.JPG (72375 bytes)

It was quickly obvious that a new cam bus was needed, so the old one was removed.

128-2839_IMG.JPG (98643 bytes)

128-2843_IMG.JPG (86988 bytes) Barrel looks great

128-2860_IMG.JPG (94184 bytes) Placing the Cam bush with a screw and center spacers to assure a straight pull, and it does not jam on the way.

130-3065_IMG.JPG (39096 bytes)130-3066_IMG.JPG (41278 bytes)130-3067_IMG.JPG (31205 bytes)130-3069_IMG.JPG (36771 bytes)130-3068_IMG.JPG (23673 bytes) Reaming the Cam Bush - Please note the bush spacer that keeps the reamer in line, and does a perfect job. - The Reamer Was borrowed from Henrik Larsen from the Danish Ariel Klub

130-3070_IMG.JPG (37434 bytes)130-3071_IMG.JPG (39315 bytes)130-3073_IMG.JPG (37823 bytes)128-2863_IMG.JPG (72382 bytes)128-2864_IMG.JPG (50664 bytes) Now I have to shim the crankshaft with the crankcase.

130-3072_IMG.JPG (57536 bytes) Just a moment-photo of my tool shed - its pure pleasure to do Ariel there - When its warm (-:

130-3074_IMG.JPG (35748 bytes) The two cams, The old one have to be redone somehow - The new one was purchased from Jørgen Andersen.

131-3151_IMG.JPG (38566 bytes)131-3152_IMG.JPG (34603 bytes)131-3153_IMG.JPG (40313 bytes)131-3154_IMG.JPG (34542 bytes) The halfs have been prepared and the shimming is finished, so the halved can be put together for good.

131-3164_IMG.JPG (33421 bytes)131-3163_IMG.JPG (37071 bytes)131-3156_IMG.JPG (41065 bytes)131-3157_IMG.JPG (35690 bytes)131-3158_IMG.JPG (34393 bytes) The halves are carefully cleaned with alcohol, and the sealing compound is put on both halves.

131-3159_IMG.JPG (32377 bytes)131-3160_IMG.JPG (41134 bytes)131-3161_IMG.JPG (40030 bytes)131-3162_IMG.JPG (38748 bytes) The halves are put together, and the end clearance is checked once again.

131-3165_IMG.JPG (34352 bytes)131-3166_IMG.JPG (31669 bytes)131-3167_IMG.JPG (42803 bytes)131-3168_IMG.JPG (45087 bytes)131-3169_IMG.JPG (28654 bytes)131-3171_IMG.JPG (28038 bytes)131-3172_IMG.JPG (37986 bytes)131-3173_IMG.JPG (38335 bytes) Now its time to fit the CAM and the cam followers. Please make sure the lube before fitting, as the first starting of the engine will be without that much lube, until the oil is circulating properly.

131-3155_IMG.JPG (48143 bytes) I made some slight modifications to the gasket, to make it fit the timing side - Otherwise it would not be a perfect fit. I took off aboit 1-2 mm at the side.

132-3204_IMG.JPG (41868 bytes) Make sure to place the extra gasket at the oil return suction joint. (Use very little fluid gasket on each side to be sure)

132-3205_IMG.JPG (36200 bytes) Putting slight amount of fluid gasket on the timing box.

132-3207_IMG.JPG (36857 bytes)132-3206_IMG.JPG (39013 bytes) When the timing halve has been fitted you should make a test to check weather the return suction joint are air tight - I took a rubber hose and placed on the suction tube (near the sump plate) and placed my finger on the hole where the oil pump is fitted, and started to suck. This should be completely air tight.

131-3174_IMG.JPG (42063 bytes)131-3175_IMG.JPG (45183 bytes)131-3176_IMG.JPG (42676 bytes)131-3177_IMG.JPG (44702 bytes) Next was the cylinder barrel and head.

132-3208_IMG.JPG (44820 bytes)132-3209_IMG.JPG (42196 bytes) If the timing chain are the endless one, it has to be fitted with the sprocket, other wise its not possible to get it on.

132-3210_IMG.JPG (40658 bytes)132-3211_IMG.JPG (32281 bytes)132-3212_IMG.JPG (36317 bytes)132-3213_IMG.JPG (29429 bytes) The ignition and dynamo is inspected - I checked that it was functioning bu getting a electric jilt when turning it by hand. (It can have other faults, even though this is possible)

131-3188_IMG.JPG (49709 bytes)131-3189_IMG.JPG (53969 bytes)131-3195_IMG.JPG (47257 bytes)131-3196_IMG.JPG (43699 bytes)132-3201_IMG.JPG (41201 bytes) the engine is ready, now I just want to make the bike roadworthy - I found that the rear wheel bearing was badly worn, so it had to be changed. (Don't worry, it will also have to be painted at some point in time)

Make your own Front fork dismantle tool.

132-3283_IMG.JPG (42498 bytes)132-3284_IMG.JPG (46879 bytes)132-3285_IMG.JPG (34899 bytes)132-3286_IMG.JPG (35140 bytes)132-3287_IMG.JPG (34198 bytes)132-3288_IMG.JPG (32160 bytes)132-3289_IMG.JPG (45992 bytes)132-3290_IMG.JPG (45239 bytes) I have received a question on how the tool for dismantling the front for looks like. The tool shown in the pictures are made myself, and works quite well. forktool.jpg (11205 bytes) Crude measurement picture of the fork tool.

127-2762_IMG.JPG (43049 bytes) This is the first bike I own that has a Speedo.

127-2765_IMG.JPG (41070 bytes)127-2766_IMG.JPG (43408 bytes)127-2767_IMG.JPG (26917 bytes)

127-2759_IMG.JPG (36946 bytes)127-2760_IMG.JPG (47926 bytes)127-2771_IMG.JPG (62758 bytes) Removing the timing cover.

127-2763_IMG.JPG (20221 bytes)127-2769_IMG.JPG (49028 bytes)127-2770_IMG.JPG (57338 bytes)127-2772_IMG.JPG (46782 bytes)127-2774_IMG.JPG (44564 bytes) Oil pump etc.

127-2775_IMG.JPG (39625 bytes) Lots of buildup of excess fluid gasket - I wonder how the sludge trap looks.

127-2776_IMG.JPG (49076 bytes)127-2777_IMG.JPG (45936 bytes)127-2778_IMG.JPG (44880 bytes) Is it normal to have them to much off center?

127-2779_IMG.JPG (42836 bytes)127-2780_IMG.JPG (42815 bytes) Its going to be a real hassle to get this pinion off, It has bee grinding the crancase!!

127-2761_IMG.JPG (43044 bytes)127-2768_IMG.JPG (48194 bytes) Removing the Drive side cover.

127-2781_IMG.JPG (45438 bytes)127-2784_IMG.JPG (39714 bytes)127-2785_IMG.JPG (41737 bytes)127-2786_IMG.JPG (44428 bytes) Engine removed and inspected

127-2787_IMG.JPG (39608 bytes)127-2788_IMG.JPG (49820 bytes)127-2790_IMG.JPG (47718 bytes)127-2789_IMG.JPG (46001 bytes)127-2792_IMG.JPG (42650 bytes)127-2791_IMG.JPG (37736 bytes)127-2793_IMG.JPG (35975 bytes) Cylinder + piston + Head looks fine

127-2783_IMG.JPG (37377 bytes)127-2782_IMG.JPG (45869 bytes) VB without motor.

127-2794_IMG.JPG (49040 bytes) My temporary workshop (in 5 degrees freeeeeezing).

127-2795_IMG.JPG (47912 bytes)127-2796_IMG.JPG (45637 bytes) Transport to better locations

127-2797_IMG.JPG (45473 bytes)127-2798_IMG.JPG (41812 bytes)127-2799_IMG.JPG (29990 bytes)127-2800_IMG.JPG (35830 bytes)128-2801_IMG.JPG (37901 bytes) Now I need to dismantle some of the last bits, and then its all going to be properly cleaned, for final inspection.

128-2822_IMG.JPG (17418 bytes)128-2823_IMG.JPG (18294 bytes)128-2824_IMG.JPG (25992 bytes)128-2825_IMG.JPG (27849 bytes)128-2827_IMG.JPG (32453 bytes) This shock absorber arrangement is ok, even though they dont seem to look right.

The Assembly:

The parts are now properly cleaned and ready for inspection and assembly:

128-2842_IMG.JPG (84633 bytes)128-2841_IMG.JPG (84812 bytes)129-2957_IMG.JPG (67557 bytes)129-2958_IMG.JPG (63833 bytes)129-2959_IMG.JPG (77020 bytes)129-2960_IMG.JPG (69358 bytes)129-2961_IMG.JPG (82173 bytes)128-2840_IMG.JPG (72375 bytes)

It was quickly obvious that a new cam bus was needed, so the old one was removed.

128-2839_IMG.JPG (98643 bytes)

128-2843_IMG.JPG (86988 bytes) Barrel looks great

128-2860_IMG.JPG (94184 bytes) Placing the Cam bush with a screw and center spacers to assure a straight pull, and it does not jam on the way.

130-3065_IMG.JPG (39096 bytes)130-3066_IMG.JPG (41278 bytes)130-3067_IMG.JPG (31205 bytes)130-3069_IMG.JPG (36771 bytes)130-3068_IMG.JPG (23673 bytes) Reaming the Cam Bush - Please note the bush spacer that keeps the reamer in line, and does a perfect job. - The Reamer Was borrowed from Henrik Larsen from the Danish Ariel Klub

130-3070_IMG.JPG (37434 bytes)130-3071_IMG.JPG (39315 bytes)130-3073_IMG.JPG (37823 bytes)128-2863_IMG.JPG (72382 bytes)128-2864_IMG.JPG (50664 bytes) Now I have to shim the crankshaft with the crankcase.

130-3072_IMG.JPG (57536 bytes) Just a moment-photo of my tool shed - its pure pleasure to do Ariel there - When its warm (-:

130-3074_IMG.JPG (35748 bytes) The two cams, The old one have to be redone somehow - The new one was purchased from Jørgen Andersen.

131-3151_IMG.JPG (38566 bytes)131-3152_IMG.JPG (34603 bytes)131-3153_IMG.JPG (40313 bytes)131-3154_IMG.JPG (34542 bytes) The halfs have been prepared and the shimming is finished, so the halved can be put together for good.

131-3164_IMG.JPG (33421 bytes)131-3163_IMG.JPG (37071 bytes)131-3156_IMG.JPG (41065 bytes)131-3157_IMG.JPG (35690 bytes)131-3158_IMG.JPG (34393 bytes) The halves are carefully cleaned with alcohol, and the sealing compound is put on both halves.

131-3159_IMG.JPG (32377 bytes)131-3160_IMG.JPG (41134 bytes)131-3161_IMG.JPG (40030 bytes)131-3162_IMG.JPG (38748 bytes) The halves are put together, and the end clearance is checked once again.

131-3165_IMG.JPG (34352 bytes)131-3166_IMG.JPG (31669 bytes)131-3167_IMG.JPG (42803 bytes)131-3168_IMG.JPG (45087 bytes)131-3169_IMG.JPG (28654 bytes)131-3171_IMG.JPG (28038 bytes)131-3172_IMG.JPG (37986 bytes)131-3173_IMG.JPG (38335 bytes) Now its time to fit the CAM and the cam followers. Please make sure the lube before fitting, as the first starting of the engine will be without that much lube, until the oil is circulating properly.

131-3155_IMG.JPG (48143 bytes) I made some slight modifications to the gasket, to make it fit the timing side - Otherwise it would not be a perfect fit. I took off aboit 1-2 mm at the side.

132-3204_IMG.JPG (41868 bytes) Make sure to place the extra gasket at the oil return suction joint. (Use very little fluid gasket on each side to be sure)

132-3205_IMG.JPG (36200 bytes) Putting slight amount of fluid gasket on the timing box.

132-3207_IMG.JPG (36857 bytes)132-3206_IMG.JPG (39013 bytes) When the timing halve has been fitted you should make a test to check weather the return suction joint are air tight - I took a rubber hose and placed on the suction tube (near the sump plate) and placed my finger on the hole where the oil pump is fitted, and started to suck. This should be completely air tight.

131-3174_IMG.JPG (42063 bytes)131-3175_IMG.JPG (45183 bytes)131-3176_IMG.JPG (42676 bytes)131-3177_IMG.JPG (44702 bytes) Next was the cylinder barrel and head.

132-3208_IMG.JPG (44820 bytes)132-3209_IMG.JPG (42196 bytes) If the timing chain are the endless one, it has to be fitted with the sprocket, other wise its not possible to get it on.

132-3210_IMG.JPG (40658 bytes)132-3211_IMG.JPG (32281 bytes)132-3212_IMG.JPG (36317 bytes)132-3213_IMG.JPG (29429 bytes) The ignition and dynamo is inspected - I checked that it was functioning bu getting a electric jilt when turning it by hand. (It can have other faults, even though this is possible)

131-3188_IMG.JPG (49709 bytes)131-3189_IMG.JPG (53969 bytes)131-3195_IMG.JPG (47257 bytes)131-3196_IMG.JPG (43699 bytes)132-3201_IMG.JPG (41201 bytes) the engine is ready, now I just want to make the bike roadworthy - I found that the rear wheel bearing was badly worn, so it had to be changed. (Don't worry, it will also have to be painted at some point in time)

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Contents

Rear light improvement

132-3291_IMG.JPG (23816 bytes)132-3292_IMG.JPG (39165 bytes)132-3295_IMG.JPG (38886 bytes)132-3296_IMG.JPG (51569 bytes)132-3297_IMG.JPG (31101 bytes) This is an experiment with making the Lucas Lighting system more efficient on my bikes. I really thing its a bit overshoot to have a 15W bulb fitted at the rear. I made simple circuit with 3 rows of 8 HB (High Bright) LEDs. Each row draws about 150 mA. - So At normal light it draws 150 mA, and when the brake light are applied, It draws a staggering 450 mA ( 0.45 A ). And the LEDs has another great property, they are 100% shock resistant, and almost never has to be replaced. No more changing the rear bulbs on my bike...

132-3293_IMG.JPG (37601 bytes)132-3294_IMG.JPG (26369 bytes) Please observe that I have removed the internals of an old bulb, so no changes are made to the bulb holder.

Here you will se the diagram - This is for 6 Volt only:

Rear_light_.jpg (43333 bytes)

If you would like a diagram the 12 V version of the Light, Please email, and I will make it and post it on this page.


MORE TO COME

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Ariel Bobber

I decided to try to make a Bobbing project of my VB600, to se if I could make a Ariel that would apeal more to the younger Generation.

Warning: no parts were hurt, destroyed or molested during this operation. Bobbed parts were made from old parts that needed restoration anyway like the rear wheel. Instead of dismantling the functioning rear wheel to use the hub in another rim, I found a unrestored rear wheel and restored the hub for the new rim.

img_4379.jpg (53772 bytes)img_4385.jpg (60858 bytes)img_4386.jpg (62926 bytes) This is th reason why I dismantled the Top, and decided to give the bike a complete overhaul... and eventually try to BOB the bike..

arska.jpg (13983 bytes) A Nicely done Ariel VB Bobbed unfortunately not mine (-:

Ariel bobber.jpg (55035 bytes) Very Cool Ariel - I guess the engine is the only part from Ariel left on this bike ???

Ariel bobber_3.jpg (69801 bytes) Hmm, Wonder how he did the wide Rear tire.. but Cool Ariel ???

Another Areil VB600


img_4405.jpg (80402 bytes)img_4406.jpg (62348 bytes) As i dismantled the bike I found that the primary chain has suffered from the sudden engine siesure, Bits of the thain rollers had broken in half !!!

img_4401.jpg (95103 bytes)img_4403.jpg (82394 bytes) Taking before photos of the rear, as I will be aiming for a wider rim for the bobber..

img_4397.jpg (92676 bytes)img_4399.jpg (85098 bytes)img_4407.jpg (116955 bytes)img_4409.jpg (95846 bytes)img_4408.jpg (126207 bytes)img_4416.jpg (122351 bytes)img_4415.jpg (117662 bytes)img_4417.jpg (113452 bytes)

Taking the bike apart, This is a joy when you know its going to be as new when its assempled again.

img_4633.jpg (61168 bytes)img_4635.jpg (99824 bytes) Everything returned from Sandblasting, and are send to Powder coating, Shiny Black.

img_5186.jpg (87696 bytes)img_5187.jpg (74046 bytes) I found a doner rear wheel for the new rim. Spokes are cut and the hub restored with mat-black paint, my favorite.

img_5320.jpg (88590 bytes)img_5321.jpg (92694 bytes) Testing out the new WM5 rim and the hub on the frame.. Rim not fitted yet.

img_5328.jpg (54381 bytes)img_5326.jpg (90705 bytes)img_5329.jpg (87305 bytes)img_5330.jpg (76172 bytes)img_5331.jpg (81559 bytes)img_5332.jpg (96077 bytes) Fitting the new rim on the restored hub, Fits perfectly.

img_5324.jpg (79159 bytes)img_5323.jpg (82899 bytes)IMG_5479.JPG (86433 bytes)IMG_5480.JPG (93749 bytes)IMG_5481.JPG (98054 bytes)IMG_5482.JPG (87877 bytes)IMG_5483.JPG (95513 bytes) Now the rim is loosly fitted to the hub, and placed on the bike for measurement. I need to locate the correct tire before the complete tighten of spokes, as a slight offset migh be needed to accomodate for this extheme wide rim (-:

IMG_5526.jpg (21248 bytes)IMG_5528.jpg (18841 bytes)IMG_5534.jpg (20071 bytes) Received the Tire for the Rear rim, and when not inflated it shows 14 cm, and I have calculated that I will accept 13 cm. So I will have to dismantle the rim,spokes and hub, and fit the tire on the rim, and do the measurements:

IMG_5535.jpg (23267 bytes)IMG_5536.jpg (26133 bytes) Hub dismantled again.

IMG_5537.jpg (29267 bytes)IMG_5538.jpg (26890 bytes)IMG_5539.jpg (16032 bytes) Tire on the rim, and it shows a clean 13 cm, as requited. So that is satisfactory. Now I need to get the rim set according to the calculations on the map below:

rimcalc.jpg (35219 bytes) Crude map descriping how the rim, tire and frame all fit together, in the new setup, Note the 5 mm Offset.

IMG_5484.JPG (100817 bytes)IMG_5485.JPG (85266 bytes) The workshed... Ariel parts accumulates like Dust ...

IMG_5576.JPG (81449 bytes)IMG_5577.JPG (90795 bytes)IMG_5578.JPG (91237 bytes)IMG_5579.JPG (95678 bytes)IMG_5580.JPG (97709 bytes)IMG_5581.JPG (92480 bytes)IMG_5582.JPG (90725 bytes)IMG_5584.JPG (87997 bytes)IMG_5585.JPG (70697 bytes)IMG_5586.JPG (95259 bytes) Now the Rear wheel is in its place, and what a sight... I realy like the look at the Rear on the bike now. Not it only needs a Nice looking Rear fender... Comming soon.


IMG_5559.JPG (58583 bytes)IMG_5561.JPG (47676 bytes)IMG_5563.JPG (58333 bytes)IMG_5564.JPG (57489 bytes)IMG_5565.JPG (47581 bytes)IMG_5566.JPG (44918 bytes)IMG_5567.JPG (49380 bytes)IMG_5568.JPG (50867 bytes) The Mudguard needs a repair before it will be used again, so some welding is needed...

IMG_5571.JPG (39097 bytes) The Locas switch is not god, as it locks up... Fixed by rebore of Aluminium, and fit a brass sleve... It works like a charm

IMG_5572.JPG (44315 bytes) This tank needs some fixing... Or another tank...

IMG_5587.JPG (94578 bytes) And Dont forget the KG either ..

IMG_5605.jpg (29395 bytes)IMG_5606.jpg (26058 bytes)IMG_5607.jpg (36166 bytes)IMG_5608.jpg (37562 bytes)IMG_5609.jpg (37747 bytes)IMG_5610.jpg (36850 bytes)IMG_5611.jpg (36578 bytes) Recieved my Rear fender and drag bar. This is a crude look of the bike, but the rear fender will be shortenen, and made to fir slightly better than what is seen on the pictures above.

The Frame will be supported at the end, and a frame to fit the Number plate will be made to fit the side of the fender support. To do this leagaly, you will have to comply with the following:

- The numberplate should be readable from an angle of 45 degrees to the sides - It must be over 30 cm over the ground. - It must not be tilted more than 30 degrees from vertical position. - Must be supplied with numberplate light (Not red rear light) - Rear fender must be supplied with rear light + brake light. (not the numberplate light)

Making the Numberplate mount:

IMG_5668.JPG (33254 bytes)IMG_5669.JPG (31024 bytes)IMG_5670.JPG (23387 bytes)IMG_5667.JPG (26627 bytes)IMG_5673.JPG (62501 bytes)IMG_5671.JPG (47524 bytes)IMG_5672.JPG (55748 bytes)

Making the Seat:

IMG_5662.JPG (30460 bytes)IMG_5663.JPG (17899 bytes) Trying out some different Seat Arrangements..

IMG_5666.JPG (21716 bytes)IMG_5665.JPG (27042 bytes)IMG_5731.JPG (19023 bytes)IMG_5730.JPG (23898 bytes)IMG_5732.JPG (22087 bytes)IMG_5733.JPG (18670 bytes)IMG_5734.JPG (20836 bytes)IMG_5735.JPG (26559 bytes)IMG_5737.JPG (27880 bytes)IMG_5736.JPG (24902 bytes)IMG_5745.JPG (26362 bytes)IMG_5746.JPG (25981 bytes)IMG_5747.JPG (25966 bytes)IMG_5748.JPG (21398 bytes)IMG_5749.JPG (29766 bytes)IMG_5750.JPG (28798 bytes)IMG_5752.JPG (25614 bytes)IMG_5751.JPG (28752 bytes)IMG_5753.JPG (26354 bytes) Making the seat from soft/hard foam, I thought this was a challenge, but it was prety straight foreward. - Please have a look at the Seat on my bike on the later photos below.

IMG_5664.JPG (21976 bytes) Just trying out my Old School Sparto Rear light on the mudguard.

IMG_5677.JPG (24737 bytes) hmmm Yes that me.. in action

IMG_5678.JPG (21126 bytes) Making room for the rear chain..

IMG_5739.JPG (23778 bytes)IMG_5740.JPG (23205 bytes)IMG_5759.JPG (38509 bytes)IMG_5760.JPG (35216 bytes)IMG_5761.JPG (29610 bytes)IMG_5762.JPG (20517 bytes)IMG_5763.JPG (19214 bytes)IMG_5764.JPG (24739 bytes)IMG_5765.JPG (32124 bytes) Just received the Cylinder and Head from the local machine shop.. Painted Oven Black, and baked in the oven to harden the paint. - I know that the top should not be black, but As some of the finns were gone, and this top isnt the best looking on the planet, I painted it black to increase the HEat radiation, and eventually it will be swapped with a better top.

IMG_5742.JPG (29983 bytes) (The machine shop did not check the flow of the crank, the oil will actually drain out of the hole next to the nut.. Need to figure out how to fix this...) I took it back to the machine shop, and they placed a washer, so the hole was now closed. This was acceptable again.

IMG_5770.JPG (28216 bytes)IMG_5771.JPG (24522 bytes) Building the engine op again and fittin on the bike.

IMG_5769.JPG (27911 bytes)IMG_5772.JPG (28895 bytes)IMG_5773.JPG (28962 bytes) Fitting the Piston.

IMG_5774.JPG (28058 bytes)IMG_5775.JPG (32008 bytes)IMG_5788.JPG (34833 bytes)IMG_5789.JPG (39037 bytes)IMG_5791.JPG (36574 bytes)IMG_5792.JPG (32697 bytes)IMG_5794.JPG (29955 bytes)IMG_5796.JPG (35009 bytes)IMG_5797.JPG (37990 bytes)IMG_5798.JPG (35194 bytes)IMG_5790.JPG (68061 bytes)IMG_5795.JPG (66748 bytes)IMG_5793.JPG (66236 bytes) Taking the Bike out in the sun in its full glory, HAving fitted the Old Gas tank for test, but its not the tank that is supposed to be fitted at the end..... for that I have more stream lined Plans.

IMG_5815.JPG (29767 bytes)IMG_5816.JPG (28266 bytes) I got the tank today.

IMG_5823.JPG (29136 bytes) Remember to but Metal strips on the inside of the fender to support the wites for the Rear light.

IMG_5817.JPG (29218 bytes)IMG_5824.JPG (28636 bytes)IMG_5826.JPG (30883 bytes)IMG_5827.JPG (29425 bytes)IMG_5825.JPG (29175 bytes)IMG_5818.JPG (26569 bytes)IMG_5819.JPG (24873 bytes)IMG_5820.JPG (27941 bytes)IMG_5821.JPG (29633 bytes) Taking the Ariel out in the sun, Almost done before starting it.

IMG_5859.JPG (32659 bytes)IMG_5860.JPG (28416 bytes)IMG_5861.JPG (28782 bytes)IMG_5862.JPG (34670 bytes)IMG_5863.JPG (34166 bytes)IMG_5864.JPG (32055 bytes)IMG_5865.JPG (30648 bytes)

IMG_5866.JPG (23155 bytes)IMG_5867.JPG (30726 bytes) The Charge relay can not be mounted under the seat, so it has found a permanent place on the rear fender under the new seat close to the Battery box.

IMG_5868.JPG (14295 bytes)IMG_5870.JPG (12351 bytes) This is the smart (2-in-1) )number plate lights.

IMG_5869.JPG (21770 bytes) And the rear, light.

My fenders send to the Painter,

IMG_5887.JPG (37317 bytes)IMG_5888.JPG (28565 bytes)IMG_5891.JPG (33116 bytes)IMG_5889.JPG (32857 bytes)IMG_5900.JPG (37035 bytes)

Recieved the fenders from the painter, and that is realy an impressive job!!

IMG_5920.JPG (27975 bytes)IMG_5921.JPG (26430 bytes)IMG_5922.JPG (26040 bytes)IMG_5923.JPG (21004 bytes)IMG_5924.JPG (20120 bytes)IMG_5925.JPG (32271 bytes)IMG_5926.JPG (27256 bytes)IMG_5927.JPG (30500 bytes)

Mounting the fenders

IMG_5928.JPG (31968 bytes) a stand is needed for this, as the front wheel needs to go off to fit the front fender.

And the finished result (Tha Daaaaa):

IMG_5937.JPG (28831 bytes)IMG_5938.JPG (29259 bytes)IMG_5939.JPG (29858 bytes)IMG_5929.JPG (27334 bytes)IMG_5931.JPG (28025 bytes)IMG_5930.JPG (29561 bytes)IMG_5933.JPG (26586 bytes)IMG_5932.JPG (27975 bytes)IMG_5935.JPG (31585 bytes)IMG_5934.JPG (30922 bytes)IMG_5936.JPG (30613 bytes)IMG_5940.JPG (28384 bytes)IMG_5941.JPG (33984 bytes)IMG_5942.JPG (31779 bytes)IMG_5944.JPG (39756 bytes)IMG_5945.JPG (36328 bytes)IMG_5946.JPG (40219 bytes)IMG_5943.JPG (39258 bytes)IMG_5947.JPG (41882 bytes)IMG_5950.JPG (29098 bytes)IMG_5949.JPG (29201 bytes)IMG_5951.JPG (29211 bytes)IMG_5948.JPG (30240 bytes)

Funny enough, it looks like amoped when a person of 2 meters are sitting on it (-:

IMG_5952.JPG (30895 bytes)IMG_5953.JPG (32474 bytes)IMG_5954.JPG (33333 bytes)

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Rear light improvement

132-3291_IMG.JPG (23816 bytes)132-3292_IMG.JPG (39165 bytes)132-3295_IMG.JPG (38886 bytes)132-3296_IMG.JPG (51569 bytes)132-3297_IMG.JPG (31101 bytes) This is an experiment with making the Lucas Lighting system more efficient on my bikes. I really thing its a bit overshoot to have a 15W bulb fitted at the rear. I made simple circuit with 3 rows of 8 HB (High Bright) LEDs. Each row draws about 150 mA. - So At normal light it draws 150 mA, and when the brake light are applied, It draws a staggering 450 mA ( 0.45 A ). And the LEDs has another great property, they are 100% shock resistant, and almost never has to be replaced. No more changing the rear bulbs on my bike...

132-3293_IMG.JPG (37601 bytes)132-3294_IMG.JPG (26369 bytes) Please observe that I have removed the internals of an old bulb, so no changes are made to the bulb holder.

Here you will se the diagram - This is for 6 Volt only:

Rear_light_.jpg (43333 bytes)

If you would like a diagram the 12 V version of the Light, Please email, and I will make it and post it on this page.

Back to start page HOME Get your Ariel things here www.draganfly.co.uk.

Front fork dismantle tool

132-3283_IMG.JPG (42498 bytes)132-3284_IMG.JPG (46879 bytes)132-3285_IMG.JPG (34899 bytes)132-3286_IMG.JPG (35140 bytes)132-3287_IMG.JPG (34198 bytes)132-3288_IMG.JPG (32160 bytes)132-3289_IMG.JPG (45992 bytes)132-3290_IMG.JPG (45239 bytes) I have received a question on how the tool for dismantling the front for looks like. The tool shown in the pictures are made myself, and works quite well. forktool.jpg (11205 bytes) Crude measurement picture of the fork tool.

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