Ariel KG500 Rebuilding

Revision as of 09:25, 30 October 2010

Ariel KG500 Rebuilding

First Renovation

Old post card showing the type I am trying to rebuild (this is how its supposed to look like).

The Beginning !! The bike is an Ariel KG 500 from 1950.

And now !!! - almost at the end.

The current status on how far I have come until now, is very well presented in the photos I have recently taken.

The things I am missing at the moment:

  1. Painting the tank for my type. (this is by no means a first priority)
  2. Missing leather for my new rear seat.

The 21.06.2001 at about 20.00 in the evening, the motor was started for the first time. And might I say, it was sweet sound to my ears. The great assistance from Jan Jensen, is greatly appreciated. and will (weather he likes it or not (-: ) be rewarded.

Soon there will be some photos of the bike fully assembled.

All it actually required for the motor to run, was switching the ignition cables, and fitting the carb., but a checkup from a person who knows these bikes is not in its way.

Before the restoration began:

During restoration:

After the restoration (still missing the tank though):

Second restoration of the motor 30.09.2001

The motor has been removed from the frame

100-0018 IMG 2.JPG

100-0019 IMG 2.JPG

100-0020 IMG 2.JPG

100-0010_IMG.JPG (277442 bytes)100-0012_IMG_2.JPG (269821 bytes)100-0013_IMG_2.JPG (270709 bytes)100-0014_IMG_2.JPG (260216 bytes) (The motor is ready for inspection)

100-0015_IMG_2.JPG (283184 bytes) (just some spare mudguards)

100-0048_IMG.JPG (83604 bytes)100-0050_IMG.JPG (79738 bytes)100-0049_IMG.JPG (77575 bytes)100-0047_IMG.JPG (227578 bytes) (Ohhh. were should I begin)

100-0054_IMG.JPG (83972 bytes)100-0053_IMG.JPG (83054 bytes) (Ill start from the top - removing the cylinder head).

100-0051_IMG.JPG (85268 bytes)100-0052_IMG.JPG (101766 bytes) (When removing the cylinder barrel, remember to mark each pushrod, for correct assembly - and before lifting off the barrel, place pistons at lowest point).

100-0055_IMG.JPG (84188 bytes) (- And remember to mark the front of the cylinder barrel, since its reversible).

100-0056_IMG.JPG (77128 bytes)100-0057_IMG.JPG (100874 bytes) (When barrel removed, mark the valves, for correct assembly - Check barrels).

100-0058_IMG.JPG (86683 bytes)100-0060_IMG.JPG (87178 bytes)100-0059_IMG.JPG (93008 bytes)100-0061_IMG.JPG (81522 bytes)100-0062_IMG.JPG (72220 bytes)100-0065_IMG.JPG (64360 bytes) (Remove the pistons by removing the circlips, and slide the gudgeon pin out)

100-0064_IMG.JPG (89670 bytes)100-0063_IMG.JPG (84256 bytes)100-0066_IMG.JPG (73122 bytes)100-0077_IMG.JPG (256837 bytes)100-0067_IMG.JPG (84056 bytes)

Next is the timing chain etc. Start by removing the generator.

100-0068_IMG.JPG (100181 bytes)100-0069_IMG.JPG (100145 bytes)100-0070_IMG.JPG (114905 bytes)100-0071_IMG.JPG (107906 bytes)100-0072_IMG.JPG (311352 bytes)100-0076_IMG.JPG (357071 bytes) (Remove timing cover, and inspect for wear)

100-0074_IMG.JPG (302119 bytes)100-0075_IMG.JPG (169597 bytes)100-0073_IMG.JPG (148138 bytes) (Remove tension blade - inspect for wear).

100-0081_IMG.JPG (202388 bytes)100-0079_IMG.JPG (233325 bytes)100-0078_IMG.JPG (201173 bytes)100-0080_IMG.JPG (362698 bytes) (Open the timing chain - if possible, and remove is. Use a general purpose extraction tool to remove the timing gears from the cam shafts - its now possible to observe if there is any tear on the main shaft bronze bush)

100-0083_IMG.JPG (210009 bytes)100-0082_IMG.JPG (176732 bytes)100-0084_IMG.JPG (306928 bytes) (Remove the magnet - BTH in this case)

100-0085_IMG.JPG (213970 bytes)100-0086_IMG.JPG (206827 bytes)100-0087_IMG.JPG (278470 bytes)100-0090_IMG.JPG (298316 bytes)100-0089_IMG.JPG (276346 bytes) (Now flip the motor on to the side, and remove the crank case sump cover, to reveal the oil pump. Remove the oil pump)

100-0093_IMG.JPG (303471 bytes)101-0103_IMG.JPG (255794 bytes)100-0091_IMG.JPG (276798 bytes)101-0101_IMG.JPG (250888 bytes)101-0102_IMG.JPG (281769 bytes)100-0092_IMG.JPG (309258 bytes)100-0095_IMG.JPG (344023 bytes)100-0094_IMG.JPG (292278 bytes)100-0100_IMG.JPG (294071 bytes) (Unscrew the bolts that holds the crank case together - remember the 2 at the top in the cylinder barrel entrance, and pull them gently apart. Remove the cam shafts and the crank shaft).

100-0096_IMG.JPG (212538 bytes)101-0104_IMG.JPG (206819 bytes)101-0108_IMG.JPG (58708 bytes)100-0098_IMG.JPG (219251 bytes) (Inspect the crank shafts timing side with a finger nail, and check the driving side roller barring - Removing of the roller barring is done with a special extraction tool, which I am very fortunate to have (-: )

101-0105_IMG.JPG (441347 bytes) (remove the outside of the roller barring of the crank case, by gently heating the barring part and surrounding metal with at flame torch - When heated, get some ice cubes and place them in 1 or 2 plastic bags and rub them against the inside of the barring - With a little help, the barring is easily extracted)

101-0107_IMG.JPG (244982 bytes)101-0106_IMG.JPG (282183 bytes)100-0099_IMG.JPG (394914 bytes)100-0097_IMG.JPG (358278 bytes) (The timing side barring is extracted by applying pure pressure or gently punching it with a plastic hammer)

100-0088_IMG.JPG (296143 bytes) (When finished, store the parts a safe place - and still preserve order)

101-0109_IMG.JPG (56798 bytes)101-0110_IMG.JPG (66140 bytes)101-0111_IMG.JPG (43130 bytes)101-0113_IMG.JPG (56980 bytes)101-0125_IMG.JPG (45900 bytes)101-0128_IMG.JPG (86004 bytes) (Comparison of old bronze barring with original barring)

Close to assembly of motor

A new barring is made from correct lead-bronze, and is line bored in the crank case.

103-0314_IMG.JPG (97028 bytes)103-0311_IMG.JPG (94535 bytes) (the line bored bronze bush)

103-0312_IMG.JPG (53976 bytes)103-0313_IMG.JPG (54021 bytes) (the surface is fixed)

103-0320_IMG.JPG (99722 bytes) (The bronze and the white metal bush)

103-0316_IMG.JPG (50484 bytes)103-0317_IMG.JPG (54015 bytes) (a fresh new white metal main shaft bush - just in case)

103-0318_IMG.JPG (62076 bytes)103-0319_IMG.JPG (62000 bytes) (the old and the new)

103-0315_IMG.JPG (65004 bytes)103-0321_IMG.JPG (71706 bytes) (the missing gaskets, ready for assembly)

106-0677_IMG.JPG (44436 bytes)106-0678_IMG.JPG (37988 bytes)106-0679_IMG.JPG (38170 bytes)106-0680_IMG.JPG (53371 bytes) Checking the shim distance - should be about 0.002 - 0.004 in.

106-0670_IMG.JPG (35386 bytes)106-0674_IMG.JPG (31273 bytes) (Getting the correct shims for the crank shaft)

106-0667_IMG.JPG (61707 bytes)106-0668_IMG.JPG (60028 bytes)106-0669_IMG.JPG (55907 bytes) ( Removing the roller barring for shim placement )

106-0675_IMG.JPG (29114 bytes)106-0676_IMG.JPG (53117 bytes) (Placing the shim )

106-0681_IMG.JPG (58576 bytes)106-0682_IMG.JPG (67125 bytes)106-0683_IMG.JPG (60256 bytes) (Mounting the conrods)

106-0684_IMG.JPG (45778 bytes)106-0685_IMG.JPG (49792 bytes) (Making the parts necessary for assembly, warm up to a normal temperature - not funny when the fingers stick to the crank case because of frost - preparing for assembly)

106-0686_IMG.JPG (58246 bytes)106-0687_IMG.JPG (57141 bytes) (Make sure to oil up the bushes - this is the last chance before actual run)

106-0688_IMG.JPG (40242 bytes)106-0690_IMG.JPG (44339 bytes)106-0691_IMG.JPG (45987 bytes) (Clean surfaces with a grease dissolvent, and wait for it to vaporize)

106-0696_IMG.JPG (41736 bytes)106-0697_IMG.JPG (49909 bytes) (Place the fluid gasket on the surfaces)

106-0698_IMG.JPG (48665 bytes)106-0700_IMG.JPG (45024 bytes)107-0704_IMG.JPG (46993 bytes)107-0705_IMG.JPG (63561 bytes) ( Place the camshafts and crankshaft, and make sure that the cams are places correctly)

107-0708_IMG.JPG (38800 bytes)107-0709_IMG.JPG (44790 bytes)107-0710_IMG.JPG (44855 bytes)107-0711_IMG.JPG (49875 bytes)107-0713_IMG.JPG (56324 bytes)107-0714_IMG.JPG (50970 bytes)107-0720_IMG.JPG (44044 bytes)107-0721_IMG.JPG (60397 bytes)107-0725_IMG.JPG (45959 bytes) (Uhhh yes, I love it when I get to this stage)

107-0726_IMG.JPG (34010 bytes)107-0727_IMG.JPG (35058 bytes)107-0728_IMG.JPG (36997 bytes)107-0730_IMG.JPG (34173 bytes) (Oil pump is checked and assembled)

107-0732_IMG.JPG (41032 bytes)107-0735_IMG.JPG (40100 bytes)107-0737_IMG.JPG (46941 bytes) (Oil pump mounted on crankcase)

107-0738_IMG.JPG (46345 bytes)107-0739_IMG.JPG (49232 bytes) (Oil pump connector rod is oiled and inserted)

At this point I can hardly turn the crank shaft !!! I discover a line on the crank shaft, that was not previously there - Something is wrong.

107-0745_IMG.JPG (47139 bytes)107-0746_IMG.JPG (48119 bytes)

It turns out that the new screws that I bought from Draganfly, for mounting the oil pump is slightly longer than the ones originally used, so a slight modification was made for this screw.

107-0744_IMG.JPG (36685 bytes) (The difference in length ) 107-0741_IMG.JPG (37861 bytes) (The tip of the screw, that touched the cranks shaft flywheel)

107-0748_IMG.JPG (42707 bytes) (The crankcase sump cover was modified, to make it more flat )

107-0749_IMG.JPG (61166 bytes)107-0750_IMG.JPG (51429 bytes)107-0751_IMG.JPG (43720 bytes) (A normal gasket was fabricated, and fluid gasket was applied - The sump filter gauze was inserted)

107-0753_IMG.JPG (35727 bytes)107-0754_IMG.JPG (44751 bytes)107-0755_IMG.JPG (43622 bytes) (Completing the oil sump cover assembly)

107-0756_IMG.JPG (45301 bytes)107-0757_IMG.JPG (58839 bytes)107-0758_IMG.JPG (64290 bytes)107-0759_IMG.JPG (54402 bytes)107-0761_IMG.JPG (64191 bytes) (Placing the gears)

107-0762_IMG.JPG (76300 bytes)107-0763_IMG.JPG (72383 bytes)107-0764_IMG.JPG (68948 bytes) (Chain + chain tentioner)

107-0765_IMG.JPG (82606 bytes) (Oil pressure ball + Spring) VERY IMPORTANT

107-0766_IMG.JPG (81722 bytes) (Make sure the gears are timed correctly)

107-0767_IMG.JPG (45005 bytes)107-0768_IMG.JPG (42939 bytes)107-0769_IMG.JPG (42438 bytes)107-0770_IMG.JPG (53801 bytes) (Now its time for the Cylinder + Cylinder head, but lets first place it on the motor stand, for ease and comfort.)

107-0771_IMG.JPG (65285 bytes)107-0772_IMG.JPG (71306 bytes)107-0773_IMG.JPG (55902 bytes) (Collection all the necessary components for assembly)

107-0774_IMG.JPG (41808 bytes)107-0775_IMG.JPG (41152 bytes)107-0776_IMG.JPG (53311 bytes)107-0777_IMG.JPG (47026 bytes) (Preparing the cylinder block)

107-0781_IMG.JPG (51261 bytes)107-0782_IMG.JPG (46903 bytes)107-0784_IMG.JPG (47273 bytes)107-0786_IMG.JPG (58025 bytes) (Fitting the pistons - Inserting the G-rings)

107-0788_IMG.JPG (43776 bytes)107-0790_IMG.JPG (53143 bytes) (Fitting cylinder block)

108-0807_IMG.JPG (50378 bytes)108-0806_IMG.JPG (55316 bytes) Cylinder head and tubes are fitted. Can be useful to have someone guiding the pushrods into the Cylinder head.

107-0795_IMG.JPG (49088 bytes)107-0797_IMG.JPG (37208 bytes)107-0799_IMG.JPG (43672 bytes) (Now its time for ignition timing, This is no easy business!! - But you wouldn't imagine what 2 bad CDs and some double sided tape would do)

Actual breaking point measurement was done by letting a small current go through the dynamo. The wires were connected to each side of the breaker, and a Amp meter was connected in series with the power supply. This way it was easy to monitor when the the breaking points went apart. (it can be done simpler with a small light bulb, and observe the dimming of the light, as the breaking points go apart)

Do not use large currents, since this will damage the dynamo. I used something in the order of 100 mA. But the larger the currents, the bigger the difference in open/closed reading.

108-0820_IMG.JPG (53910 bytes)108-0824_IMG.JPG (52890 bytes) (Place wires on nonmoving parts if possible, and if dynamo turned repeatedly, remember to take wires of and unwind them)

The manual says that: ....... Braking points should break at 4-8 Degrees After Top Dead Center....... In Advanced position, this should produce a 30 Degrees Before Top Dead Center. - If a mismatch should occur between these 2 figures, then go for the 30 Degree part.

But the trouble is, that I made some measurement data, which gave the following results: Degrees in Retarded position Degrees in Advanced position 4 Degrees 36 Degrees 8 Degrees 34 Degrees 12 Degrees 30 Degrees

A discussion was made on the [AOMCC] groups, and I concluded that the 30 Degrees Before Top Dead Center were the to go for. This was the opinion of everyone. The course of the timing problem, can - as far as I believe - only be the Auto advance unit, since this is the only variable in the system. If this was not the case, then the fault would have to be a change in the ratio between the exhaust camshaft gear and the Auto advance unit (not likely).

108-0804_IMG.JPG (44588 bytes)108-0805_IMG.JPG (48480 bytes) (This is the Auto Advance unit for the BTH Dynamo - this is the one removed from my motor).

autoar.jpg (192794 bytes)fred_kh.jpg (99507 bytes) (This unit is the one fitted on Lucas Dynamos - These Lucas and BTH Auto Advance units are supposed to be interchangeable - pictures are from Markus Nikot & Leo Wood - thanks)

I have been offered a brand new BTH unit from Victor Horley. The unit is mounted when I get it home.

108-0816_IMG.JPG (52134 bytes)108-0814_IMG.JPG (65430 bytes)108-0815_IMG.JPG (54167 bytes) (Since this is a 1950 Twin, and does not have modified cam form, which came in 1952, I have to set the valve-tappet cold clearances to 0.002 in at both the exhaust and Inlet. I modified my CD disc, now it can measure relative to both TDC and BDC).

108-0818_IMG.JPG (58099 bytes)108-0819_IMG.JPG (59409 bytes) (The valve covers are fitted - at this point the motor is ways 45 kg without generator and timing cover, and im assembling this motor at 1. floor - will it survive the way down the stairs!!)

The AutoAdvance Unit

I received a new old Auto-advance unit from Victor Horley, which really did the job.

110-1057_IMG.JPG (315235 bytes) (Just comparing the two advance units)

110-1059_IMG.JPG (301310 bytes)110-1061_IMG.JPG (338995 bytes) (I observed that the alignment of the two pins were perfect on the new unit, but not on the old unit)

110-1062_IMG.JPG (307066 bytes)110-1063_IMG.JPG (317102 bytes) (Note the gab on the new unit, this limits the advanced position)

110-1064_IMG.JPG (272156 bytes) (These roller balls are in perfect condition)

110-1065_IMG.JPG (234277 bytes)110-1066_IMG.JPG (280994 bytes)110-1067_IMG.JPG (310870 bytes) (The advance unit dismantled)

When the unit were dismantled, I measured the balls, which were Ø = 14,3 mm and Length = 14,3 mm. (The weight - which is the most important one was not possible to measure, because I do not have a weight that accurate)

The old unit advanced about 40 degrees on the dynamo, but the new unit did about 30 degrees (need 34 - 38 degrees according to book). So I adjusted the auto advance unit slightly, to make it move the 4/2 = 2 degrees more. This was done by removing material from the metal arm bended downwards in the picture below (done in all 5 places) Be carefull not to take too much, and you will not be within the limit described in the Workshop manual.

110-1062_IMG.JPG (307066 bytes)

I obtained a 4 degrees ATDC, with a 30 degrees BTDC in full advance.

Thanks Vic.

AMAL 276

Restoration of the Amal 276 Carb. The pictures below shows the state it was in when I started renovating - I got the Carb from Henrik Larsen:

108-0832_IMG.JPG (72586 bytes)108-0833_IMG.JPG (64777 bytes)108-0834_IMG.JPG (61785 bytes)108-0835_IMG.JPG (72634 bytes)108-0836_IMG.JPG (63027 bytes)108-0837_IMG.JPG (88471 bytes)108-0838_IMG.JPG (79909 bytes)108-0839_IMG.JPG (58334 bytes)108-0840_IMG.JPG (79615 bytes)108-0841_IMG.JPG (64397 bytes)108-0842_IMG.JPG (83135 bytes)108-0843_IMG.JPG (73947 bytes)108-0844_IMG.JPG (80284 bytes)108-0831_IMG.JPG (75709 bytes)

Not a pretty sight, but that the fun part - to bring this Carb. to a worthy condition.

The Carb. was first washed with a toothbrush in ordinary soap water. Then I started to remove the old paint with fine steel-wool in soap water (only to the outside). After some time with this., I managed to get it to look like the pictures below:

108-0845_IMG.JPG (63158 bytes)108-0846_IMG.JPG (67114 bytes)108-0847_IMG.JPG (60757 bytes)108-0848_IMG.JPG (69527 bytes)108-0869_IMG.JPG (48523 bytes)108-0870_IMG.JPG (58389 bytes)108-0871_IMG.JPG (57776 bytes)

(Now I can actually see the type number - 276 FW/1B )

The external parts are now close to ready (needs some polish) - This is the result:

109-0905_IMG.JPG (52374 bytes)109-0908_IMG.JPG (56110 bytes)109-0909_IMG.JPG (56434 bytes)108-0900_IMG.JPG (72223 bytes)

None of the internals are checked, and I quickly identify that the slide is extremely worn (can move slightly sideways in Carb.) This is fixed by getting a replacement slide. This does not fit - so the slide have to be carefully sanded to fit.

To get most control over the sanding speed, I use some 220-paper to make it slide with force, and then I switch to a 512-paper to adjust. You can se where to sand, if you take a permanent marker and color some parts of the slide, and then slide it in and out of the main body of the Carb. This way the marker will be removed where the slide hits the Carburetor wall.

108-0894_IMG.JPG (101458 bytes) (The paper types)

108-0890_IMG.JPG (63945 bytes)108-0893_IMG.JPG (72023 bytes) (The old and the new slide)

109-0903_IMG.JPG (38875 bytes)109-0904_IMG.JPG (48819 bytes) (The the effect of the marker can be seen here).

108-0896_IMG.JPG (57655 bytes) (The Slide is now a perfect fit).

Dynamo Toast

I have completely forgotten to look at the electric circuitry, since the lights went out on the fatal trip last year. After dismantling the Dynamo, I saw that the armature had been so warm that the soldering tin has heated beyond fluid and have been centrifuged off the armature, to form a ring on the inside of the dynamos shell!!

121-2102_IMG.JPG (26198 bytes)121-2103_IMG.JPG (28968 bytes)121-2104_IMG.JPG (29509 bytes)

And the Field coil did look a bit suspicious, so I ended up giving the dynamo a complete overhaul.

Remember - If you ever encounter this phenomenon on your dynamo, and you are planning on fixing this your self, then remember to check the bush plate (plate where you mount the coals), because the heat generated will make the bush plate brittle, and will break under little stress. This should changed.

I will try to make an autopsy of both the Field coil, to se if it is possible for a mortal to make one by off the shelf products.

--- MCR2 RB107 "Motor Cycle Control Box" ---

When looking closer at the electrical circuitry, I needed to know more about the charge relay box, so I came across the following PDF documents on the net:

Lucas Workshop Instructions for "Motor Cycle Control Box" - TYPE: MCR2

Lucas Workshop Instructions for "Motor Cycle Control Box" - TYPE: RB107

Misc + OilFilter

I finally got time to push the kick starter, and what a rush - When Looking back at the engine completely dismantled, and you wish you were out there riding the bike, its finally time to sit on it, and enjoy the ride, instead of laying below it and changing the oil pump.

The oil pump issues was the last thing that caused trouble:

When I started the motor for the first time, it took some time (and little more throttle) for the oil to reach 25 lbs as prescribed in the Users guide, but when riding it at increased throttle, it would stay at 25 lbs. When I go to idle it would fall to about ZERO!!! - Do I need to say that I stopped the ride.

I had an idea to what was wrong, and I looked at the previously taken pictures (LINK) because I was a little concerned about the oil pumps new gaskets. These were of the normal gasket material, and when measured, it proved to be 0.4 mm thick, but the original gasket (that I didn't throw out) was only 0.15 mm thick. The oil would more or less circulate within the oil pump.

I removed the oil pump from below the engine, and replaced the gasket with the old gasket, and that did the trick. When I started the engine, the pressure would climb to 25lbs immediately, and when a little throttle was applied, it would touch the next marker on the meter.

Having experienced the wet-sumping, I decided to solve it for good, and while I was at it, wanted to fit a Oil filter:

128-2811_IMG.JPG (24228 bytes)128-2812_IMG.JPG (34390 bytes) Fresh Restored Oil pump supplied by Victor Horley, This should do some of the trick

128-2815_IMG.JPG (24760 bytes)128-2817_IMG.JPG (22325 bytes)128-2813_IMG.JPG (25143 bytes)128-2814_IMG.JPG (21701 bytes) Valve to shut the oil supply off to the engine. (only when at rest (-:) (This has not been fitted, as the oil pump delivered from Victor Horley was able to stop the oil flowing to the engine)

128-2821_IMG.JPG (16996 bytes) The oil filter to fit on the KG. 131-3190_IMG.JPG (33411 bytes)131-3191_IMG.JPG (24786 bytes)131-3192_IMG.JPG (42347 bytes) This is where the oil filter is fitted on the bike - Between the gearbox and the rear mudguard.

Sprocket change

133-3377_IMG.JPG (23459 bytes)133-3380_IMG.JPG (27378 bytes) I found that I had a 19T sprocket on the engine, and I really needed a 5´th gear at some times, so i discovered the the 19T was only for sidecar driving. - Im thinking about fitting a 23T or 24 T...

Oil Cooler + Small Problems.

Experiment with finding an oil cooler have resulted in the following device:

I found an oil cooler on the net that used to fit the Honda DAX mopeds, I removed everything except the cooler, and then removed the DAC bracket and created my own for fitting on the Ariel frame.

DAX_oilcooler.jpg (38075 bytes) This is the Oilcooler as it appers on the net for direct purchasing

img_1255.jpg (39822 bytes)img_1256.jpg (59306 bytes)img_1257.jpg (49437 bytes)img_1258.jpg (40993 bytes) This is how it looks modified for Ariel use.

img_1259.jpg (47777 bytes)img_1260.jpg (53756 bytes)img_1262.jpg (49304 bytes) Mounted on the KG..

Changing front procket to 24 tooth on the KG.

img_3476.jpg (284865 bytes) Changing the gearing to 24 Tooth, Its worth it.

Why NOT to use run on try primary chaincase !!!!

img_3480.jpg (281412 bytes)img_4228.jpg (359605 bytes)img_4232.jpg (303746 bytes)img_4235.jpg (359348 bytes) Someone adviced me not to use Oil in the primary chain case !!! I dont want to take this advice from now...

Underslung position lights are in some cases overslung...

img_4238.jpg (281074 bytes)img_4240.jpg (334022 bytes) Daimler seems to have the same position light as our Ariels (-: Just placed upside down... Photo take at the 2004 Swapmeet in City2 - Taastrup.

Short Movie of Running Ariel 1

Short Movie of Running Ariel 2

Short Movie of Running Ariel 3

New Oil presure gauge.

New Oilpressure Guage -> 0-25 PSI, Eureka, reproduction, but needs to find the right Oil tube fittings.

IMG_6267.JPG (11088 bytes)IMG_6325.JPG (194054 bytes)IMG_6328.JPG (150303 bytes)IMG_6324.JPG (219005 bytes)

New tank and fixing the head.

I was certain that I was suffering form blowby, and needed some new pistonrings, so to make things complete I decided to give it a Top and barrel Overhaul.

This is the Head and pistons before:

IMG_5912.JPG (17849 bytes)IMG_5913.JPG (24794 bytes)IMG_5914.JPG (23134 bytes)IMG_5915.JPG (23644 bytes)IMG_5916.JPG (24120 bytes)IMG_5917.JPG (20897 bytes)IMG_5918.JPG (30777 bytes)IMG_5919.JPG (21448 bytes)

This is afterwards:

IMG_6109.JPG (21849 bytes)IMG_6110.JPG (23486 bytes)IMG_6111.JPG (16810 bytes)

And now for fitting:

IMG_6112.JPG (33725 bytes)IMG_6113.JPG (26624 bytes)IMG_6114.JPG (35896 bytes)

Draganfly has new tanks made from india. these are in very great condition, and comes fully cromed.

IMG_6144.JPG (29007 bytes)IMG_6145.JPG (40389 bytes)IMG_6146.JPG (42142 bytes)IMG_6147.JPG (37070 bytes)

Checking the gearbox for excessive Greasing, and yes there were too much..

IMG_5901.JPG (27683 bytes)IMG_5902.JPG (32881 bytes)IMG_5903.JPG (23301 bytes)IMG_5904.JPG (30919 bytes)IMG_5905.JPG (24998 bytes)

Cleaning out the axcess grease.

It ws found that vibrations at high speeds were due to worn bearings in the gearbox, so i finaly took it apart for complete overhaul:

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the reaming and fitting of end bushes were done with help from Henrik Larsen, and making and fitting of new mainshaft bushes were done with help from Torben Olsen.

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The raw panel from draganfly has now retruned from the cromer, and can be seen here loosely fitted on the panel tank. Waiting for complete assembly when the speedometer cable and DC40 trouble ligt arrives from draganfly. Please note the nice Speedometer I got from Henrik to complete the KG500 Project.

Roller Bearing Conversion Modification to Ariel KG/KH 500.

First of all I need a donor Bottom to experiment with. for this purpose I have accuried the following parts with great help from Mike Robson.

The Crank needs a little further investigation weather it is suatable or not, as the surface for the connecting rids looks abit modified. and might have been too modified to my tast:

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The Left side Half of the case looks like NOS, and will not be modified at all. Ath Rigt side will be modified to accomodate to the new bearing: The Bearing that is going to be fitted is the INA.NKIB 5906 (C3) bearing which is a Normal roller bearing as well as a thrust bearing. This means that no shimming is required as it also is hold in place in the axis direction, This is the specifications: Dimensions (metric) d 30

F 35 D 47 B 23 B1 25 Approx. Wgt. lbs .340 Interchange FAG DNJB 5906 INA NKIB 5906 SKF (Eur.) NKIB 5906 SKF (EUR. Old No.) NAXB 5906

As can be seen from the drawing above, the Crank case will have to worked to give room for the Outer diameter of 47 mm, where the normal Diameter of the bearing to be placed in the case is 41,25 mm, so the hole in the crank will have to increase its diamter with about 5,75 mm. This leaves sufficient material to be left in place, and it must be remembered that the Bearing is made of steel, so alot of strength is maintained there.

The Crank will be re-groung to a Diameter of 30 mm, where it originally is about 31,8 mm. No problem here either.

I have made CAD drawing of the Setup only involving the replacement Bearing for the moment, but it will be revised to show the Oild feed as well, when I find a Timing cover so I can measyre the Space available:

Rev 1.00.01:

Download the CAD file containing the complete drawing: rev_1.00.01.cad, If you want to view it, you can use the free cadstd software, used to draf this file. Its simple, Nice and completely free..http://www.cadstd.com

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Rev 1.00.02:

Now included the Original Design as well for comparison:

Or download the CAd file direcly here: rev_1.00.02.cad,

The big question is getting the oil pressure into the crank, but I have a couple of suggestions to how this can be done. Natually it will have to gi in through the end of the crank, but for Authentic reasons I will NOT settle for a solution that will require me to drill holes in the outer timing cover.

More to come soon. But It will be possible to make this modification. If you have any thoughts on this or any suggestions Please drop me a line.

I am a member of the "Danish Ariel Club" (www.arielklubben.dk), and "Ariel Owners MC Club", Back to start page HOME - Get your Ariel things here www.draganfly.co.uk.

Email me at - kimfmx@gmail.com