Ariel KG500 Rebuilding

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Latest revision as of 17:41, 17 June 2011

Ariel KG500 Rebuilding

Email me

1 First Renovation
2 Second restoration of the motor 30.09.2001
3 The AutoAdvance Unit
4 AMAL 276
5 Dynamo Toast
6 Misc + OilFilter
7 Oil Cooler + Small Problems.
8 New tank and fixing the head.
9 Roller Bearing Conversion Modification to Ariel KG/KH 500.

First Renovation

Old post card showing the type I am trying to rebuild (this is how its supposed to look like).

The 21.06.2001 at about 20.00 in the evening, the motor was started for the first time. And might I say, it was sweet sound to my ears. The great assistance from Jan Jensen, is greatly appreciated. and will (weather he likes it or not (-: ) be rewarded.

Soon there will be some photos of the bike fully assembled.

All it actually required for the motor to run, was switching the ignition cables, and fitting the carb., but a checkup from a person who knows these bikes is not in its way.

Before the restoration

During restoration:

After the restoration (still missing the tank though):

Second restoration of the motor 30.09.2001

The motor has been removed from the frame

The motor is ready for inspection

Ohhh. were should I begin

Ill start from the top - removing the cylinder head

When removing the cylinder barrel, remember to mark each pushrod, for correct assembly - and before lifting off the barrel, place pistons at lowest point

And remember to mark the front of the cylinder barrel, since its reversible

When barrel removed, mark the valves, for correct assembly - Check barrels

Remove the pistons by removing the circlips, and slide the gudgeon pin out

Next is the timing chain etc. Start by removing the generator.

Remove timing cover, and inspect for wear

Remove tension blade - inspect for wear

Open the timing chain - if possible, and remove is. Use a general purpose extraction tool to remove the timing gears from the cam shafts - its now possible to observe if there is any tear on the main shaft bronze bush

Remove the magnet - BTH in this case

Now flip the motor on to the side, and remove the crank case sump cover, to reveal the oil pump. Remove the oil pump

Unscrew the bolts that holds the crank case together - remember the 2 at the top in the cylinder barrel entrance, and pull them gently apart. Remove the cam shafts and the crank shaftcase

Inspect the crank shafts timing side with a finger nail, and check the driving side roller barring - Removing of the roller barring is done with a special extraction tool, which I am very fortunate to have (-:

remove the outside of the roller barring of the crank case, by gently heating the barring part and surrounding metal with at flame torch - When heated, get some ice cubes and place them in 1 or 2 plastic bags and rub them against the inside of the barring - With a little help, the barring is easily extracted

The timing side barring is extracted by applying pure pressure or gently punching it with a plastic hammer

When finished, store the parts a safe place - and still preserve order

Comparison of old bronze barring with original barring
	101-0110 IMG.JPG

Close to assembly of motor

A new barring is made from correct lead-bronze, and is line bored in the crank case.

The line bored bronze bush

The surface is fixed

The bronze and the white metal bush

A fresh new white metal main shaft bush - just in case

The old and the new

The missing gaskets, ready for assembly

Checking the shim distance - should be about 0.002 - 0.004 in

Getting the correct shims for the crank shaft

Removing the roller barring for shim placement

Placing the shim

Mounting the conrods

Making the parts necessary for assembly, warm up to a normal temperature - not funny when the fingers stick to the crank case because of frost - preparing for assembly

Make sure to oil up the bushes - this is the last chance before actual run

Clean surfaces with a grease dissolvent, and wait for it to vaporize

Place the fluid gasket on the surfaces

Place the camshafts and crankshaft, and make sure that the cams are places correctly

Uhhh yes, I love it when I get to this stage

Oil pump is checked and assembled

Oil pump mounted on crankcase

Oil pump connector rod is oiled and inserted

At this point I can hardly turn the crank shaft !!! I discover a line on the crank shaft, that was not previously there - Something is wrong.

It turns out that the new screws that I bought from Draganfly, for mounting the oil pump is slightly longer than the ones originally used, so a slight modification was made for this screw.

The tip of the screw, that touched the cranks shaft flywheel

The crankcase sump cover was modified, to make it more flat

A normal gasket was fabricated, and fluid gasket was applied - The sump filter gauze was inserted

Completing the oil sump cover assembly

Placing the gears

Chain + chain tentioner

Oil pressure ball + Spring) VERY IMPORTANT

Make sure the gears are timed correctly

Now its time for the Cylinder + Cylinder head, but lets first place it on the motor stand, for ease and comfort.

Collection all the necessary components for assembly

Preparing the cylinder block

Fitting the pistons - Inserting the G-rings

Fitting cylinder block

Cylinder head and tubes are fitted. Can be useful to have someone guiding the pushrods into the Cylinder head

Now its time for ignition timing, This is no easy business!! - But you wouldn't imagine what 2 bad CDs and some double sided tape would do

Actual breaking point measurement was done by letting a small current go through the dynamo. The wires were connected to each side of the breaker, and a Amp meter was connected in series with the power supply. This way it was easy to monitor when the the breaking points went apart. (it can be done simpler with a small light bulb, and observe the dimming of the light, as the breaking points go apart)

Do not use large currents, since this will damage the dynamo. I used something in the order of 100 mA. But the larger the currents, the bigger the difference in open/closed reading.

Place wires on nonmoving parts if possible, and if dynamo turned repeatedly, remember to take wires of and unwind them

The manual says that: ....... Braking points should break at 4-8 Degrees After Top Dead Center....... In Advanced position, this should produce a 30 Degrees Before Top Dead Center. - If a mismatch should occur between these 2 figures, then go for the 30 Degree part.

But the trouble is, that I made some measurement data, which gave the following results: Degrees in Retarded position Degrees in Advanced position 4 Degrees 36 Degrees 8 Degrees 34 Degrees 12 Degrees 30 Degrees

A discussion was made on the [AOMCC] groups, and I concluded that the 30 Degrees Before Top Dead Center were the to go for. This was the opinion of everyone. The course of the timing problem, can - as far as I believe - only be the Auto advance unit, since this is the only variable in the system. If this was not the case, then the fault would have to be a change in the ratio between the exhaust camshaft gear and the Auto advance unit (not likely).

This is the Auto Advance unit for the BTH Dynamo - this is the one removed from my motor

This unit is the one fitted on Lucas Dynamos - These Lucas and BTH Auto Advance units are supposed to be interchangeable - pictures are from Markus Nikot & Leo Wood - thanks

I have been offered a brand new BTH unit from Victor Horley. The unit is mounted when I get it home.

Since this is a 1950 Twin, and does not have modified cam form, which came in 1952, I have to set the valve-tappet cold clearances to 0.002 in at both the exhaust and Inlet. I modified my CD disc, now it can measure relative to both TDC and BDC

The valve covers are fitted - at this point the motor is ways 45 kg without generator and timing cover, and im assembling this motor at 1. floor - will it survive the way down the stairs!!

The AutoAdvance Unit

I received a new old Auto-advance unit from Victor Horley, which really did the job.

Just comparing the two advance units

I observed that the alignment of the two pins were perfect on the new unit, but not on the old unit

Note the gab on the new unit, this limits the advanced position

These roller balls are in perfect condition

The advance unit dismantled

When the unit were dismantled, I measured the balls, which were Ø = 14,3 mm and Length = 14,3 mm. (The weight - which is the most important one was not possible to measure, because I do not have a weight that accurate)

The old unit advanced about 40 degrees on the dynamo, but the new unit did about 30 degrees (need 34 - 38 degrees according to book). So I adjusted the auto advance unit slightly, to make it move the 4/2 = 2 degrees more. This was done by removing material from the metal arm bended downwards in the picture below (done in all 5 places) Be carefull not to take too much, and you will not be within the limit described in the Workshop manual.

File:110-1062_IMG.JPG

I obtained a 4 degrees ATDC, with a 30 degrees BTDC in full advance.

Thanks Vic.

AMAL 276

Restoration of the Amal 276 Carb. The pictures below shows the state it was in when I started renovating - I got the Carb from Henrik Larsen:


			108-0842 IMG.JPG

Not a pretty sight, but that the fun part - to bring this Carb. to a worthy condition.

The Carb. was first washed with a toothbrush in ordinary soap water. Then I started to remove the old paint with fine steel-wool in soap water (only to the outside). After some time with this., I managed to get it to look like the pictures below:

(Now I can actually see the type number - 276 FW/1B )

The external parts are now close to ready (needs some polish) - This is the result:

None of the internals are checked, and I quickly identify that the slide is extremely worn (can move slightly sideways in Carb.) This is fixed by getting a replacement slide. This does not fit - so the slide have to be carefully sanded to fit.

To get most control over the sanding speed, I use some 220-paper to make it slide with force, and then I switch to a 512-paper to adjust. You can se where to sand, if you take a permanent marker and color some parts of the slide, and then slide it in and out of the main body of the Carb. This way the marker will be removed where the slide hits the Carburetor wall.

The paper types

The old and the new slide

The the effect of the marker can be seen here

The Slide is now a perfect fit

Dynamo Toast

I have completely forgotten to look at the electric circuitry, since the lights went out on the fatal trip last year. After dismantling the Dynamo, I saw that the armature had been so warm that the soldering tin has heated beyond fluid and have been centrifuged off the armature, to form a ring on the inside of the dynamos shell!!

And the Field coil did look a bit suspicious, so I ended up giving the dynamo a complete overhaul.

Remember - If you ever encounter this phenomenon on your dynamo, and you are planning on fixing this your self, then remember to check the bush plate (plate where you mount the coals), because the heat generated will make the bush plate brittle, and will break under little stress. This should changed.

I will try to make an autopsy of both the Field coil, to se if it is possible for a mortal to make one by off the shelf products.

--- MCR2 RB107 "Motor Cycle Control Box" ---

When looking closer at the electrical circuitry, I needed to know more about the charge relay box, so I came across the following PDF documents on the net:

Lucas Workshop Instructions for "Motor Cycle Control Box" - TYPE: MCR2

Lucas Workshop Instructions for "Motor Cycle Control Box" - TYPE: RB107

Misc + OilFilter

I finally got time to push the kick starter, and what a rush - When Looking back at the engine completely dismantled, and you wish you were out there riding the bike, its finally time to sit on it, and enjoy the ride, instead of laying below it and changing the oil pump.

The oil pump issues was the last thing that caused trouble:

When I started the motor for the first time, it took some time (and little more throttle) for the oil to reach 25 lbs as prescribed in the Users guide, but when riding it at increased throttle, it would stay at 25 lbs. When I go to idle it would fall to about ZERO!!! - Do I need to say that I stopped the ride.

I had an idea to what was wrong, and I looked at the previously taken pictures (LINK) because I was a little concerned about the oil pumps new gaskets. These were of the normal gasket material, and when measured, it proved to be 0.4 mm thick, but the original gasket (that I didn't throw out) was only 0.15 mm thick. The oil would more or less circulate within the oil pump.

I removed the oil pump from below the engine, and replaced the gasket with the old gasket, and that did the trick. When I started the engine, the pressure would climb to 25lbs immediately, and when a little throttle was applied, it would touch the next marker on the meter.

Having experienced the wet-sumping, I decided to solve it for good, and while I was at it, wanted to fit a Oil filter:

Fresh Restored Oil pump supplied by Victor Horley, This should do some of the trick

Valve to shut the oil supply off to the engine. (only when at rest (-:)

(This has not been fitted, as the oil pump delivered from Victor Horley was able to stop the oil flowing to the engine)

The oil filter to fit on the KG.

This is where the oil filter is fitted on the bike - Between the gearbox and the rear mudguard.

Sprocket change

I found that I had a 19T sprocket on the engine, and I really needed a 5´th gear at some times, so i discovered the the 19T was only for sidecar driving. - Im thinking about fitting a 23T or 24 T...

Oil Cooler + Small Problems.

Experiment with finding an oil cooler have resulted in the following device:

I found an oil cooler on the net that used to fit the Honda DAX mopeds, I removed everything except the cooler, and then removed the DAC bracket and created my own for fitting on the Ariel frame.

This is the Oilcooler as it appers on the net for direct purchasing

This is how it looks modified for Ariel use.

Mounted on the KG..

Changing front procket to 24 tooth on the KG.

Changing the gearing to 24 Tooth, Its worth it.

Why NOT to use run on try primary chaincase !!!!

Someone adviced me not to use Oil in the primary chain case !!! I dont want to take this advice from now...

Underslung position lights are in some cases overslung...

Daimler seems to have the same position light as our Ariels (-: Just placed upside down... Photo take at the 2004 Swapmeet in City2 - Taastrup.

Short Movie of Running Ariel 1

Short Movie of Running Ariel 2

Short Movie of Running Ariel 3

New Oil presure gauge.

New Oilpressure Guage -> 0-25 PSI, Eureka, reproduction, but needs to find the right Oil tube fittings.

New tank and fixing the head.

I was certain that I was suffering form blowby, and needed some new pistonrings, so to make things complete I decided to give it a Top and barrel Overhaul.

This is the Head and pistons before:

This is afterwards:

And now for fitting:

Draganfly has new tanks made from india. these are in very great condition, and comes fully cromed.

Checking the gearbox for excessive Greasing, and yes there were too much..

Cleaning out the axcess grease.

It ws found that vibrations at high speeds were due to worn bearings in the gearbox, so i finaly took it apart for complete overhaul:

the reaming and fitting of end bushes were done with help from Henrik Larsen, and making and fitting of new mainshaft bushes were done with help from Torben Olsen.

The raw panel from draganfly has now retruned from the cromer, and can be seen here loosely fitted on the panel tank. Waiting for complete assembly when the speedometer cable and DC40 trouble ligt arrives from draganfly. Please note the nice Speedometer I got from Henrik to complete the KG500 Project.

Roller Bearing Conversion Modification to Ariel KG/KH 500.

First of all I need a donor Bottom to experiment with. for this purpose I have accuried the following parts with great help from Mike Robson.

The Crank needs a little further investigation weather it is suatable or not, as the surface for the connecting rids looks abit modified. and might have been too modified to my tast:

				IMG 6261.JPG

The Left side Half of the case looks like NOS, and will not be modified at all. Ath Rigt side will be modified to accomodate to the new bearing: The Bearing that is going to be fitted is the INA.NKIB 5906 (C3) bearing which is a Normal roller bearing as well as a thrust bearing. This means that no shimming is required as it also is hold in place in the axis direction, This is the specifications: Dimensions (metric) d 30

F 35 D 47 B 23 B1 25 Approx. Wgt. lbs .340 Interchange FAG DNJB 5906 INA NKIB 5906 SKF (Eur.) NKIB 5906 SKF (EUR. Old No.) NAXB 5906

As can be seen from the drawing above, the Crank case will have to worked to give room for the Outer diameter of 47 mm, where the normal Diameter of the bearing to be placed in the case is 41,25 mm, so the hole in the crank will have to increase its diamter with about 5,75 mm. This leaves sufficient material to be left in place, and it must be remembered that the Bearing is made of steel, so alot of strength is maintained there.

The Crank will be re-groung to a Diameter of 30 mm, where it originally is about 31,8 mm. No problem here either.

I have made CAD drawing of the Setup only involving the replacement Bearing for the moment, but it will be revised to show the Oild feed as well, when I find a Timing cover so I can measyre the Space available:

Rev 1.00.01:

Download the CAD file containing the complete drawing: rev_1.00.01.cad, If you want to view it, you can use the free cadstd software, used to draf this file. Its simple, Nice and completely free..http://www.cadstd.com

Rev 1.00.02:

Now included the Original Design as well for comparison:

Or download the CAd file direcly here: rev_1.00.02.cad,

The big question is getting the oil pressure into the crank, but I have a couple of suggestions to how this can be done. Natually it will have to gi in through the end of the crank, but for Authentic reasons I will NOT settle for a solution that will require me to drill holes in the outer timing cover.

More to come soon. But It will be possible to make this modification. If you have any thoughts on this or any suggestions Please drop me a line.

Email me

Retrieved from "http://www.fmx.dk/fmxwiki/index.php?title=Ariel_KG500_Rebuilding"

Ariel KG500 Rebuilding

Views

Latest revision as of 17:41, 17 June 2011

Contents

First Renovation

Second restoration of the motor 30.09.2001

The AutoAdvance Unit

AMAL 276

Dynamo Toast

Misc + OilFilter

Oil Cooler + Small Problems.

New tank and fixing the head.

Roller Bearing Conversion Modification to Ariel KG/KH 500.

Navigation

Search

Toolbox

Personal tools

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 Ariel KG500 Rebuilding
+[mailto:kimfmx@gmail.com Email me]
+== First Renovation ==
+[[File:Kg500 tank.jpg]]
+Old post card showing the type I am trying to rebuild (this is how its supposed to look like).
+The 21.06.2001 at about 20.00 in the evening, the motor was started for the first time. And might I say, it was sweet sound to my ears. The great assistance from Jan Jensen, is greatly appreciated. and will (weather he likes it or not (-: ) be rewarded.
+Soon there will be some photos of the bike fully assembled.
+All it actually required for the motor to run, was switching the ignition cables, and fitting the carb., but a checkup from a person who knows these bikes is not in its way.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Before the restoration">
+File:Ariel_12.jpg
+File:Ariel_13.jpg
+File:Ariel_14.jpg
+File:Ariel_15.jpg
+File:Ariel_16.jpg
+File:Ariel_17.jpg
+File:Ariel_18.jpg
+File:Ariel_19.jpg
+File:Ariel_20.jpg
+File:Ariel_21.jpg
+File:Ariel_22.jpg
+File:Ariel_23.jpg
+File:Ariel_24.jpg
+File:Ariel_25.jpg
+</gallery>
+During restoration:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:Ariel_1.jpg
+File:Ariel_2.jpg
+File:Ariel_3.jpg
+File:Ariel_4.jpg
+File:Ariel_5.jpg
+File:Ariel_6.jpg
+File:Ariel_7.jpg
+File:Ariel_8.jpg
+File:Ariel_9.jpg
+File:Ariel_10.jpg
+File:Ariel_11.jpg
+</gallery>
+After the restoration (still missing the tank though):
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:Ariel_26.jpg
+File:Ariel_27.jpg
+File:Ariel_28.jpg
+File:Ariel_29.jpg
+File:Ariel_30.jpg
+File:Ariel_31.jpg
+File:Ariel_32.jpg
+File:Ariel_33.jpg
+File:Ariel_34.jpg
+File:Ariel_35.jpg
+File:Ariel_36.jpg
+File:Ariel_37.jpg
+File:Ariel_38.jpg
+File:Ariel_39.jpg
+File:Ariel_40.jpg
+File:Ariel_41.jpg
+File:Ariel_42.jpg
+File:Ariel_43.jpg
+File:Ariel_44.jpg
+File:Ariel_45.jpg
+File:Ariel_46.jpg
+File:Ariel_47.jpg
+File:Ariel_48.jpg
+File:Ariel_49.jpg
+File:Ariel_50.jpg
+File:Ariel_51.jpg
+File:Ariel_52.jpg
+File:Ariel_54.jpg
+</gallery>
+== Second restoration of the motor 30.09.2001  ==
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The motor has been removed from the frame">
+File:100-0017_IMG_2.JPG
+File:100-0018_IMG_2.JPG
+File:100-0019_IMG_2.JPG
+File:100-0020_IMG_2.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The motor is ready for inspection">
+File:100-0010_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0012_IMG_2.JPG
+File:100-0013_IMG_2.JPG
+File:100-0014_IMG_2.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Ohhh. were should I begin">
+File:100-0048_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0050_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0049_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0047_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Ill start from the top - removing the cylinder head">
+File:100-0054_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0053_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="When removing the cylinder barrel, remember to mark each pushrod, for correct assembly - and before lifting off the barrel, place pistons at lowest point">
+File:100-0051_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0052_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="And remember to mark the front of the cylinder barrel, since its reversible">
+File:100-0055_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="When barrel removed, mark the valves, for correct assembly - Check barrels">
+File:100-0056_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0057_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Remove the pistons by removing the circlips, and slide the gudgeon pin out">
+File:100-0058_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0060_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0059_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0061_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0062_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0065_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7>
+File:100-0064_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0063_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0066_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0077_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0067_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+Next is the timing chain etc. Start by removing the generator.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Remove timing cover, and inspect for wear">
+File:100-0068_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0069_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0070_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0071_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0072_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0076_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Remove tension blade - inspect for wear">
+File:100-0074_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0075_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0073_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Open the timing chain - if possible, and remove is. Use a general purpose extraction tool to remove the timing gears from the cam shafts - its now possible to observe if there is any tear on the main shaft bronze bush">
+File:100-0081_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0079_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0078_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0080_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Remove the magnet - BTH in this case">
+File:100-0083_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0082_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0084_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Now flip the motor on to the side, and remove the crank case sump cover, to reveal the oil pump. Remove the oil pump">
+File:100-0085_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0086_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0087_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0090_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0089_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Unscrew the bolts that holds the crank case together - remember the 2 at the top in the cylinder barrel entrance, and pull them gently apart. Remove the cam shafts and the crank shaftcase">
+File:100-0093_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0103_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0091_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0101_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0102_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0092_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0095_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0094_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0100_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Inspect the crank shafts timing side with a finger nail, and check the driving side roller barring - Removing of the roller barring is done with a special extraction tool, which I am very fortunate to have (-: ">
+File:100-0096_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0104_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0108_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0098_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+remove the outside of the roller barring of the crank case, by gently heating the barring part and surrounding metal with at flame torch - When heated, get some ice cubes and place them in 1 or 2 plastic bags and rub them against the inside of the barring - With a little help, the barring is easily extracted
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:101-0105_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The timing side barring is extracted by applying pure pressure or gently punching it with a plastic hammer">
+File:101-0107_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0106_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0099_IMG.JPG
+File:100-0097_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="When finished, store the parts a safe place - and still preserve order">
+File:100-0088_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Comparison of old bronze barring with original barring">
+File:101-0109_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0110_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0111_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0113_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0125_IMG.JPG
+File:101-0128_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+Close to assembly of motor
+A new barring is made from correct lead-bronze, and is line bored in the crank case.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The line bored bronze bush">
+File:103-0314_IMG.JPG
+File:103-0311_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The surface is fixed">
+File:103-0312_IMG.JPG
+File:103-0313_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The bronze and the white metal bush">
+File:103-0320_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="A fresh new white metal main shaft bush - just in case">
+File:103-0316_IMG.JPG
+File:103-0317_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The old and the new">
+File:103-0318_IMG.JPG
+File:103-0319_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The missing gaskets, ready for assembly">
+File:103-0315_IMG.JPG
+File:103-0321_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Checking the shim distance - should be about 0.002 - 0.004 in">
+File:106-0677_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0678_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0679_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0680_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Getting the correct shims for the crank shaft">
+File:106-0670_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0671_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0674_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Removing the roller barring for shim placement">
+File:106-0667_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0668_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0669_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Placing the shim">
+File:106-0675_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0676_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Mounting the conrods">
+File:106-0681_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0682_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0683_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Making the parts necessary for assembly, warm up to a normal temperature - not funny when the fingers stick to the crank case because of frost - preparing for assembly">
+File:106-0684_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0685_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Make sure to oil up the bushes - this is the last chance before actual run">
+File:106-0686_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0687_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Clean surfaces with a grease dissolvent, and wait for it to vaporize">
+File:106-0688_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0690_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0691_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Place the fluid gasket on the surfaces">
+File:106-0696_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0697_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Place the camshafts and crankshaft, and make sure that the cams are places correctly">
+File:106-0698_IMG.JPG
+File:106-0700_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0703_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0704_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0705_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Uhhh yes, I love it when I get to this stage">
+File:107-0708_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0709_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0710_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0711_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0713_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0714_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0720_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0721_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0725_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Oil pump is checked and assembled">
+File:107-0726_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0727_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0728_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0730_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Oil pump mounted on crankcase">
+File:107-0732_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0735_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0737_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Oil pump connector rod is oiled and inserted">
+File:107-0738_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0739_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+At this point I can hardly turn the crank shaft !!! I discover a line on the crank shaft, that was not previously there - Something is wrong.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7>
+File:107-0745_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0746_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+It turns out that the new screws that I bought from Draganfly, for mounting the oil pump is slightly longer than the ones originally used, so a slight modification was made for this screw.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The tip of the screw, that touched the cranks shaft flywheel">
+File:107-0744_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0741_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The crankcase sump cover was modified, to make it more flat">
+File:107-0748_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="A normal gasket was fabricated, and fluid gasket was applied - The sump filter gauze was inserted">
+File:107-0749_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0750_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0751_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Completing the oil sump cover assembly">
+File:107-0753_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0754_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0755_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Placing the gears">
+File:107-0756_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0757_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0758_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0759_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0761_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Chain + chain tentioner">
+File:107-0762_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0763_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0764_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Oil pressure ball + Spring) VERY IMPORTANT">
+File:107-0765_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Make sure the gears are timed correctly">
+File:107-0766_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Now its time for the Cylinder + Cylinder head, but lets first place it on the motor stand, for ease and comfort.">
+File:107-0767_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0768_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0769_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0770_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Collection all the necessary components for assembly">
+File:107-0771_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0772_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0773_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Preparing the cylinder block">
+File:107-0774_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0775_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0776_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0777_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Fitting the pistons - Inserting the G-rings">
+File:107-0781_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0782_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0784_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0786_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Fitting cylinder block">
+File:107-0788_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0790_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Cylinder head and tubes are fitted. Can be useful to have someone guiding the pushrods into the Cylinder head">
+File:108-0807_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0806_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Now its time for ignition timing, This is no easy business!! - But you wouldn't imagine what 2 bad CDs and some double sided tape would do">
+File:107-0795_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0797_IMG.JPG
+File:107-0799_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+Actual breaking point measurement was done by letting a small current go through the dynamo. The wires were connected to each side of the breaker, and a Amp meter was connected in series with the power supply. This way it was easy to monitor when the the breaking points went apart. (it can be done simpler with a small light bulb, and observe the dimming of the light, as the breaking points go apart)
+Do not use large currents, since this will damage the dynamo. I used something in the order of 100 mA. But the larger the currents, the bigger the difference in open/closed reading.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Place wires on nonmoving parts if possible, and if dynamo turned repeatedly, remember to take wires of and unwind them">
+File:108-0820_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0824_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+The manual says that: ....... Braking points should break at 4-8 Degrees After Top Dead Center....... In Advanced position, this should produce a 30 Degrees Before Top Dead Center. - If a mismatch should occur between these 2 figures, then go for the 30 Degree part.
+But the trouble is, that I made some measurement data, which gave the following results:
+Degrees in Retarded position 	Degrees in Advanced position
+Degrees 	36 Degrees
+Degrees 	34 Degrees
+Degrees 	30 Degrees
+A discussion was made on the [AOMCC] groups, and I concluded that the 30 Degrees Before Top Dead Center were the to go for. This was the opinion of everyone. The course of the timing problem, can - as far as I believe - only be the Auto advance unit, since this is the only variable in the system. If this was not the case, then the fault would have to be a change in the ratio between the exhaust camshaft gear and the Auto advance unit (not likely).
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="This is the Auto Advance unit for the BTH Dynamo - this is the one removed from my motor">
+File:108-0804_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0805_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="This unit is the one fitted on Lucas Dynamos - These Lucas and BTH Auto Advance units are supposed to be interchangeable - pictures are from Markus Nikot & Leo Wood - thanks">
+File:autoar.jpg
+File:fred_kh.jpg
+</gallery>
+I have been offered a brand new BTH unit from Victor Horley. The unit is mounted when I get it home.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Since this is a 1950 Twin, and does not have modified cam form, which came in 1952, I have to set the valve-tappet cold clearances to 0.002 in at both the exhaust and Inlet. I modified my CD disc, now it can measure relative to both TDC and BDC">
+File:108-0816_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0814_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0815_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The valve covers are fitted - at this point the motor is ways 45 kg without generator and timing cover, and im assembling this motor at 1. floor - will it survive the way down the stairs!!">
+File:108-0818_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0819_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+== The AutoAdvance Unit ==
+I received a new old Auto-advance unit from Victor Horley, which really did the job.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Just comparing the two advance units">
+File:110-1057_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="I observed that the alignment of the two pins were perfect on the new unit, but not on the old unit">
+File:110-1059_IMG.JPG
+File:110-1061_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Note the gab on the new unit, this limits the advanced position">
+File:110-1062_IMG.JPG
+File:110-1063_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="These roller balls are in perfect condition">
+File:110-1064_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The advance unit dismantled">
+File:110-1065_IMG.JPG
+File:110-1066_IMG.JPG
+File:110-1067_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+When the unit were dismantled, I measured the balls, which were Ø = 14,3 mm and Length = 14,3 mm. (The weight - which is the most important one was not possible to measure, because I do not have a weight that accurate)
+The old unit advanced about 40 degrees on the dynamo, but the new unit did about 30 degrees (need 34 - 38 degrees according to book). So I adjusted the auto advance unit slightly, to make it move the 4/2 = 2 degrees more. This was done by removing material from the metal arm bended downwards in the picture below (done in all 5 places) Be carefull not to take too much, and you will not be within the limit described in the Workshop manual.
+File:110-1062_IMG.JPG
+I obtained a 4 degrees ATDC, with a 30 degrees BTDC in full advance.
+Thanks Vic.
+== AMAL 276 ==
+Restoration of the Amal 276 Carb. The pictures below shows the state it was in when I started renovating - I got the Carb from Henrik Larsen:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7>
+File:108-0832_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0833_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0834_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0835_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0836_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0837_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0838_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0839_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0840_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0841_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0842_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0843_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0844_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0831_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+Not a pretty sight, but that the fun part - to bring this Carb. to a worthy condition.
+The Carb. was first washed with a toothbrush in ordinary soap water. Then I started to remove the old paint with fine steel-wool in soap water (only to the outside).
+After some time with this., I managed to get it to look like the pictures below:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7>
+File:108-0845_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0846_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0847_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0848_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0869_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0870_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0871_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+(Now I can actually see the type number - 276 FW/1B )
+The external parts are now close to ready (needs some polish) - This is the result:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7>
+File:109-0905_IMG.JPG
+File:109-0908_IMG.JPG
+File:109-0909_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0900_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+None of the internals are checked, and I quickly identify that the slide is extremely worn (can move slightly sideways in Carb.) This is fixed by getting a replacement slide. This does not fit - so the slide have to be carefully sanded to fit.
+To get most control over the sanding speed, I use some 220-paper to make it slide with force, and then I switch to a 512-paper to adjust. You can se where to sand, if you take a permanent marker and color some parts of the slide, and then slide it in and out of the main body of the Carb. This way the marker will be removed where the slide hits the Carburetor wall.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The paper types">
+File:108-0894_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The old and the new slide">
+File:108-0890_IMG.JPG
+File:108-0893_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The the effect of the marker can be seen here">
+File:109-0903_IMG.JPG
+File:109-0904_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The Slide is now a perfect fit">
+File:108-0896_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+== Dynamo Toast ==
+I have completely forgotten to look at the electric circuitry, since the lights went out on the fatal trip last year. After dismantling the Dynamo, I saw that the armature had been so warm that the soldering tin has heated beyond fluid and have been centrifuged off the armature, to form a ring on the inside of the dynamos shell!!
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7>
+File:121-2102_IMG.JPG
+File:121-2103_IMG.JPG
+File:121-2104_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+And the Field coil did look a bit suspicious, so I ended up giving the dynamo a complete overhaul.
+Remember - If you ever encounter this phenomenon on your dynamo, and you are planning on fixing this your self, then remember to check the bush plate (plate where you mount the coals), because the heat generated will make the bush plate brittle, and will break under little stress. This should changed.
+I will try to make an autopsy of both the Field coil, to se if it is possible for a mortal to make one by off the shelf products.
+--- MCR2  RB107 "Motor Cycle Control Box" ---
+When looking closer at the electrical circuitry, I needed to know more about the charge relay box, so I came across the following PDF documents on the net:
+Lucas Workshop Instructions for "Motor Cycle Control Box" - TYPE: MCR2
+Lucas Workshop Instructions for "Motor Cycle Control Box" - TYPE: RB107
+== Misc + OilFilter ==
+I finally got time to push the kick starter, and what a rush - When Looking back at the engine completely dismantled, and you wish you were out there riding the bike, its finally time to sit on it, and enjoy the ride, instead of laying below it and changing the oil pump.
+The oil pump issues was the last thing that caused trouble:
+When I started the motor for the first time, it took some time (and little more throttle) for the oil to reach 25 lbs as prescribed in the Users guide, but when riding it at increased throttle, it would stay at 25 lbs. When I go to idle it would fall to about ZERO!!! - Do I need to say that I stopped the ride.
+I had an idea to what was wrong, and I looked at the previously taken pictures (LINK) because I was a little concerned about the oil pumps new gaskets. These were of the normal gasket material, and when measured, it proved to be 0.4 mm thick, but the original gasket (that I didn't throw out) was only 0.15 mm thick. The oil would more or less circulate within the oil pump.
+I removed the oil pump from below the engine, and replaced the gasket with the old gasket, and that did the trick. When I started the engine, the pressure would climb to 25lbs immediately, and when a little throttle was applied, it would touch the next marker on the meter.
+Having experienced the wet-sumping, I decided to solve it for good, and while I was at it, wanted to fit a Oil filter:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Fresh Restored Oil pump supplied by Victor Horley, This should do some of the trick">
+File:128-2811_IMG.JPG
+File:128-2812_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Valve to shut the oil supply off to the engine. (only when at rest (-:)">
+File:128-2815_IMG.JPG
+File:128-2817_IMG.JPG
+File:128-2813_IMG.JPG
+file:128-2814_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+(This has not been fitted, as the oil pump delivered from Victor Horley was able to stop the oil flowing to the engine)
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="The oil filter to fit on the KG.">
+File:128-2821_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="This is where the oil filter is fitted on the bike - Between the gearbox and the rear mudguard.">
+File:131-3190_IMG.JPG
+File:131-3191_IMG.JPG
+File:131-3192_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+Sprocket change
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="I found that I had a 19T sprocket on the engine, and I really needed a 5´th gear at some times, so i discovered the the 19T was only for sidecar driving. - Im thinking about fitting a 23T or 24 T... ">
+File:133-3377_IMG.JPG
+File:133-3380_IMG.JPG
+</gallery>
+== Oil Cooler + Small Problems. ==
+Experiment with finding an oil cooler have resulted in the following device:
+I found an oil cooler on the net that used to fit the Honda DAX mopeds, I removed everything except the cooler, and then removed the DAC bracket and created my own for fitting on the Ariel frame.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="This is the Oilcooler as it appers on the net for direct purchasing">
+File:DAX_oilcooler.jpg
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="This is how it looks modified for Ariel use.">
+File:img_1255.jpg
+File:img_1256.jpg
+File:img_1257.jpg
+File:img_1258.jpg
+</gallery>
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Mounted on the KG..">
+File:img_1259.jpg
+File:img_1260.jpg
+File:img_1262.jpg
+</gallery>
+Changing front procket to 24 tooth on the KG.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Changing the gearing to 24 Tooth, Its worth it.">
+File:img_3476.jpg
+</gallery>
+Why NOT to use run on try primary chaincase !!!!
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Someone adviced me not to use Oil in the primary chain case !!! I dont want to take this advice from now...">
+File:img_3480.jpg
+File:img_4228.jpg
+File:img_4232.jpg
+File:img_4235.jpg
+</gallery>
+Underslung position lights are in some cases overslung...
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="Daimler seems to have the same position light as our Ariels (-: Just placed upside down... Photo take at the 2004 Swapmeet in City2 - Taastrup.">
+File:img_4238.jpg
+File:img_4240.jpg
+</gallery>
+Short Movie of Running Ariel 1
+Short Movie of Running Ariel 2
+Short Movie of Running Ariel 3
+New Oil presure gauge.
+New Oilpressure Guage -> 0-25 PSI, Eureka, reproduction, but needs to find the right Oil tube fittings.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:IMG_6267.JPG
+File:IMG_6325.JPG
+File:IMG_6328.JPG
+File:IMG_6324.JPG
+</gallery>
+== New tank and fixing the head. ==
+I was certain that I was suffering form blowby, and needed some new pistonrings, so to make things complete I decided to give it a Top and barrel Overhaul.
+This is the Head and pistons before:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:IMG_5912.JPG
+File:IMG_5913.JPG
+File:IMG_5914.JPG
+File:IMG_5915.JPG
+File:IMG_5916.JPG
+File:IMG_5917.JPG
+File:IMG_5918.JPG
+File:IMG_5919.JPG
+</gallery>
+This is afterwards:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:IMG_6109.JPG
+File:IMG_6110.JPG
+File:IMG_6111.JPG
+</gallery>
+And now for fitting:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:IMG_6112.JPG
+File:IMG_6113.JPG
+File:IMG_6114.JPG
+</gallery>
+Draganfly has new tanks made from india. these are in very great condition, and comes fully cromed.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:IMG_6144.JPG
+File:IMG_6145.JPG
+File:IMG_6146.JPG
+File:IMG_6147.JPG
+</gallery>
+Checking the gearbox for excessive Greasing, and yes there were too much..
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:IMG_5901.JPG
+File:IMG_5902.JPG
+File:IMG_5903.JPG
+File:IMG_5904.JPG
+File:IMG_5905.JPG
+</gallery>
+Cleaning out the axcess grease.
+It ws found that vibrations at high speeds were due to worn bearings in the gearbox, so i finaly took it apart for complete overhaul:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:IMG_6193.JPG
+File:IMG_6194.JPG
+File:IMG_6195.JPG
+File:IMG_6196.JPG
+File:IMG_6197.JPG
+File:IMG_6198.JPG
+File:IMG_6199.JPG
+File:IMG_6200.JPG
+File:IMG_6201.JPG
+</gallery>
+the reaming and fitting of end bushes were done with help from Henrik Larsen, and making and fitting of new mainshaft bushes were done with help from Torben Olsen.
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:IMG_6254.JPG
+File:IMG_6253.JPG
+File:IMG_6256.JPG
+File:IMG_6255.JPG
+</gallery>
+The raw panel from draganfly has now retruned from the cromer, and can be seen here loosely fitted on the panel tank. Waiting for complete assembly when the speedometer cable and DC40 trouble ligt arrives from draganfly. Please note the nice Speedometer I got from Henrik to complete the KG500 Project.
+== Roller Bearing Conversion Modification to Ariel KG/KH 500. ==
+First of all I need a donor Bottom to experiment with. for this purpose I have accuried the following parts with great help from Mike Robson.
+The Crank needs a little further investigation weather it is suatable or not, as the surface for the connecting rids looks abit modified. and might have been too modified to my tast:
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:IMG_6257.JPG
+File:IMG_6258.JPG
+File:IMG_6259.JPG
+File:IMG_6260.JPG
+File:IMG_6261.JPG
+File:IMG_6262.JPG
+File:IMG_6263.JPG
+File:IMG_6264.JPG
+File:IMG_6265.JPG
+File:IMG_6266.JPG
+</gallery>
+The Left side Half of the case looks like NOS, and will not be modified at all. Ath Rigt side will be modified to accomodate to the new bearing: The Bearing that is going to be fitted is the INA.NKIB 5906 (C3) bearing which is a Normal roller bearing as well as a thrust bearing. This means that no shimming is required as it also is hold in place in the axis direction, This is the specifications:
+Dimensions (metric) 	d 	30
+F 	35
+D 	47
+B 	23
+B1 	25
+Approx. Wgt. lbs 	.340
+Interchange 	FAG 	DNJB 5906
+INA 	NKIB 5906
+SKF (Eur.) 	NKIB 5906
+SKF (EUR. Old No.) 	NAXB 5906
+As can be seen from the drawing above, the Crank case will have to worked to give room for the Outer diameter of 47 mm, where the normal Diameter of the bearing to be placed in the case is 41,25 mm, so the hole in the crank will have to increase its diamter with about 5,75 mm. This leaves sufficient material to be left in place, and it must be remembered that the Bearing is made of steel, so alot of strength is maintained there.
+The Crank will be re-groung to a Diameter of 30 mm, where it originally is about 31,8 mm. No problem here either.
+I have made CAD drawing of the Setup only involving the replacement Bearing for the moment, but it will be revised to show the Oild feed as well, when I find a Timing cover so I can measyre the Space available:
+Rev 1.00.01:
+Download the CAD file containing the complete drawing: rev_1.00.01.cad, If you want to view it, you can use the free cadstd software, used to draf this file. Its simple, Nice and completely free..http://www.cadstd.com
+<gallery widths=100px heights=90px perrow=7 caption="">
+File:Rev_1.00.01.jpg
+File:W620b.gif
+File:W620d.gif
+</gallery>
+Rev 1.00.02:
+Now included the Original Design as well for comparison:
+Or download the CAd file direcly here: rev_1.00.02.cad,
+The big question is getting the oil pressure into the crank, but I have a couple of suggestions to how this can be done. Natually it will have to gi in through the end of the crank, but for Authentic reasons I will NOT settle for a solution that will require me to drill holes in the outer timing cover.
+More to come soon. But It will be possible to make this modification. If you have any thoughts on this or any suggestions Please drop me a line.
+[mailto:kimfmx@gmail.com Email me]